This is a great route on super stone. Do That's Weak to get up to a big ledge with a chain anchor. Belay here or just keep going.
The angle freshens a bit, and the rock is a beautiful gold color through here, with some interesting holds for granite. Climb into an alcove on the left for a rest. Then tackle the overhanging headwall above (crux). Lower back to the ledge, and rap from the chain anchors to the ground. With a 70 meter rope, you can climb That's Weak and TG, TB, &TJ in one pitch and lower off, but put a knot in the end of the rope!!
About 9 bolts with a two bolt chain anchor. Bring a bunch more draws if you combine it with That's Weak for one long ultra pitch.
North Face of Vampire Rock. photo: Bob Horan.
T.G., T.B., & T.J.
|Comments on The Good, The Bad, and The Jacked
|By stephen sangdahl|
Oct 2, 2002
one can also lead this from the ground by climbing "thats weak" and going directly into "the good,the bad,and the jacked". makes for a nice long pitch(2 ropes to get off,or 2 rappells)f.a. s.sangdahl,d.salisbury,j.baldwin
|By Alan Higham|
Jun 19, 2005
Great pitch. Easy to mess up the onsight (as I did!). With the beta it's quite a bit easier. Very well bolted apart from the runout section off the belay.
Jun 23, 2005
One of the best 12a's in the Canyon... climbs kind of like limestone.3 stars when combined with That's Weak. Just wish the meat were longer. A 60m rope will just get you back to the ground with a little shenanigans... definitely keep a knot in the end though.
|By David A. Turner|
Jul 8, 2008
Someone added a new bolt at the start. Gear is now unnecessary.
|By Curt MacNeill|
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 31, 2011
Very well bolted and safe. I think it deserves another star in the guidebook though. Combining it with That's Weak (fun thought provoking 10a) makes for an incredibly long pitch where the climbing gets progressively harder on the upper half. Great route! Tie a knot in the end of your rope....
|By Peter J. Beyel|
Jul 17, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
Phenomenal rock climb. Definitely worth doing the 10a into this pitch for the full value 70m rope stretcher.
|By Dwight Jugornot|
From: Arvada, Co.
Aug 14, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b
I agree, one of the best at the grade. Powerful and sustained crux.
Technique pays huge dividends here as well as spotting a key rest. This would be a stout onsight. That's theory, of course.
Oct 17, 2013
Can we please stop saying "well bolted?" The correct term is "over bolted."