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Great Chimney Area
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Bastard Chimney, The 
Coup d'Etat 
Cracker Jack 
Dirty Day 
Get Jacked 
Good, the Bad, and the Jacked, The 
Handle With Care 
Hot Beef Injection 
Match the Snatch 
Milking the Bull 
Overlooked 
Pale Rider 
Perverted Inspiration 
Practice Chimney  
Son Of Great Chimney 
Son of Great Chimney Direct 
Whipping Boy 
Wild West Homo 

The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: First lead: John Scott, 1985
Page Views: 3,011
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jun 1, 2003
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Dave Groth on The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked. 1...

Description 

A popular first 5.12 at the Lake, the route climbs the blank face left of Cracker Jack, between Great Chimney and Lost Face. Start at the toe of the huge flake and make exceedingly desperate moves up a shallow corner. Pass the fixed piton, contemplate a lead of this r/x rated 5.12, remember the security of your toprope, and launch into the upper crux.

Once you execute the hard dyno, you may be surprised to find that the crux is moving your feet up. At any rate, the view of the Lake is spectacular, and you have just become a hero to the gaggle of tourists watching you from near Lost Face.


Protection 

Usually toproped. A fixed knifeblade halfway up begs for a lead ascent.



Photos of The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked Slideshow Add Photo
The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked. Some jacked sequence. Photo: Darin Limvere. Oct. 2012.
The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked. Some jacked seq...
Old school trad
Old school trad
Pete from SLC. Andrew Burr getting the shot.
Pete from SLC. Andrew Burr getting the shot.
Tube socks lead
Tube socks lead
the good, the bad, the JACKED
the good, the bad, the JACKED
Dave Groth on lead
Dave Groth on lead
FFA of the Good the Bad, and the Jacked. John Scott on lead, Dave Groth on belay. 1985.
FFA of the Good the Bad, and the Jacked. John Scot...
The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked. Placing some jacked pro. Oct 27 2012. Photo: Darin Limvere
The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked. Placing some ja...
Peter Vintoniv. Photo by Andrew Burr.
Peter Vintoniv. Photo by Andrew Burr.
Remo
Remo
Another perspective of TGTBTJacked.  Jerry working the thin left-ward pulls to reach the nice big side pull that's just below the big gigantic throw..... <br />Actually-I think he has the big side pull- is chalk'n and suck'n it up for the big throw....
Another perspective of TGTBTJacked. Jerry working...
Comments on The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked Add Comment
Show which comments
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 6, 2006

Definitely one of the coolest 12s at the lake. I would go ahead and give it 4 stars because of the moves and positioning.

By David A Groth
From: Lacrosse
Oct 25, 2006

First lead by John Scott in 1985. Exciting lead deserves an R rating.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Apr 21, 2011
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a

This is a great route. Not very long, but the climbing is technical and a bit powerful. If your looking for quality Lake 5.12's this one should be on the list.

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Apr 26, 2011

I have always thought this is one of the best routes at Devil's Lake and certainly of the best of the West Bluff. The holds are so small but super positive in places and require just the right pull angle and feet placement.... throw in a couple of big throws to big holds... fun. There is so much shifting of the body position on this climb... so very little just crimp'n straight down..

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Apr 26, 2011
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a

Well said Burt.

By Tradoholic
Sep 10, 2011

Toughest in the initial section just after the piton. Is it just laybacking hard in the crimps of the crack? I couldn't get it to go.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Aug 14, 2013
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a

I realized yesterday that there are two ways to finish this route. One is to move left and climb thin crack(the way I'm doing it in picture-5.12b) or move a bit right and climb good slot crimps(the way Peter V. is climbing in picture-5.12a with better gear). How do most people finish?