Dave Groth on The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked. 1...
A popular first 5.12 at the Lake, the route climbs the blank face left of Cracker Jack, between Great Chimney and Lost Face. Start at the toe of the huge flake and make exceedingly desperate moves up a shallow corner. Pass the fixed piton, contemplate a lead of this r/x rated 5.12, remember the security of your toprope, and launch into the upper crux.
Once you execute the hard dyno, you may be surprised to find that the crux is moving your feet up. At any rate, the view of the Lake is spectacular, and you have just become a hero to the gaggle of tourists watching you from near Lost Face.
Usually toproped. A fixed knifeblade halfway up begs for a lead ascent.
Photos of The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked Slideshow
I have always thought this is one of the best routes at Devil's Lake and certainly of the best of the West Bluff. The holds are so small but super positive in places and require just the right pull angle and feet placement.... throw in a couple of big throws to big holds... fun. There is so much shifting of the body position on this climb... so very little just crimp'n straight down..
By Remo From: Madison, WI Apr 26, 2011 rating: 5.12a/b7b26VIII+26E5 6a
Toughest in the initial section just after the piton. Is it just laybacking hard in the crimps of the crack? I couldn't get it to go.
By Remo From: Madison, WI Aug 14, 2013 rating: 5.12a/b7b26VIII+26E5 6a
I realized yesterday that there are two ways to finish this route. One is to move left and climb thin crack(the way I'm doing it in picture-5.12b) or move a bit right and climb good slot crimps(the way Peter V. is climbing in picture-5.12a with better gear). How do most people finish?
By Remo From: Madison, WI Jun 9, 2014 rating: 5.12a/b7b26VIII+26E5 6a
I've always started the climb by stepping off the ledge and traversing left along the mini-roof into the thin section to start the technical part(As the pic of Scott and Dave on the first lead). I would love to know how other people finish it too. I hope this helps. Cheers!