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Border Crossing 
Fern Crack 
Flakes Alive 
Good Book, The 
Layback 
Seeping Cracks? 
South America Flake  

The Good Book 

5.11

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Consensus: 5.11a/b [details]
FA: Unknown?
Submitted By: Michael Z. on Oct 10, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Good Book

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Description 

If you like to groveling strenuous off width type climbing this will be a favorite.

Off the ground stem, jam, smear, and wedge up a left leaning bomb-bay V groove. Pull out of the groove to a nice ledge, and well deserved rest, then follow an easier corner to quick clips.

Tape could be helpful as the fist jams can be quite painful, Ouch!


Location 

Approaching Dicky Ledge from the base The Good Book is about one hundred feet right (Northeast) of South America Flake.


Protection 

Bring a small selection of large Cams BD #3 to #4 as well as a finger sized piece if you want to sew up the last move. Lower off Quick Clips



Photos of The Good Book Slideshow Add Photo
walking by view

BETA PHOTO: walking by view

Baldy payed in flesh for a trip up this beauty...

Baldy payed in flesh for a trip up this beauty...

Notice, tape this time.

Notice, tape this time.

Nicely wedged in.

Nicely wedged in.

The face says a lot...grunting and cursing, well yes, plenty.

The face says a lot...grunting and cursing, well y...

Nick getting horizontal.

Nick getting horizontal.


Comments on The Good Book Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
Oct 10, 2011

where'd you get the photo from?

By Tom Bowker
From: somewhere in the USA
Oct 17, 2011
rating: 5.10d

There is an alternate start just right that goes at 5.10+ but is seldom dry.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 8, 2012
rating: 5.11

The first route i climbed at Dickey... what a rude awakening haha... great fun! awkward and painful... thats fun right?