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The Good Book 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 1,631
Submitted By: BDalhaus on Oct 21, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: A view of the book looking up from the base.

Description 

Do not miss this climb! While the Horn may take the prize for best trad climb in Pawtuckaway, this beautiful inside corner runs a close second. Start out atop a ledge with two jugs and large feet that will help you get established in the corner. Employing a variety of techniques, layback, stem, smear, and jam your way up the climb with the use of the hand crack in the back. Remember to keep your heels down or your calves will scream and if you’re not used to smearing you might feel a tad insecure. The crux comes early at a small roof, followed shortly thereafter by a lesser crux getting past the remnants of a tree. Every move is easily protected, but above all, the entire climb is enjoyable, aesthetic, and fun. It catches afternoon sun, dries quickly (the ledge at the base may not), and is the perfect excuse to get away from the crowds.

Location 

Roughly two minutes walk from Boulder Natural. Follow the trail towards Devil's Den, step over a jagged, fallen tree, and turn right at a large tree with a white blaze onto a faint path uphill. There is a tiny cairn just off the trail. This inside corner is hard to miss and is the first climb you come to. Ascend a gully on the left to set up a toprope.

Protection 

The crack will eat as much gear as you'll give it. Bring a lot of medium sized gear up to a #2 camalot. Anything larger probably isn't needed. Tree anchors at the top.


Photos of The Good Book Slideshow Add Photo
Justin Guarino on 'The Good Book' 5.8
Justin Guarino on 'The Good Book' 5.8
Crack above the boulder natural area kind of towar...
Crack above the boulder natural area kind of towar...

Comments on The Good Book Add Comment
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By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
Oct 24, 2008

As of 10/23/08, this climb is once again clean. I rapped off the top and removed the pine needles and leaves from the crack as well as scrubbed off a few holds and helpful foot smears.
By Adam Wilcox
From: Candia, NH
Oct 24, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Thanks for the cleaning. I've had my eye on this since I discovered it last winter. Might get on it tomorrow.
By Adam Wilcox
From: Candia, NH
Oct 25, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Lots of fun! My first 5.8 lead and it felt pretty secure. I found doubles of .5 to 1 useful, as well as a single #2, but I'm sure it could be done with less by those more comfortable with the grade.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 10, 2009

A REALLY NICE forgotten classic... The coolest thing is that it hasnt seen the traffic over the years that the other classics have seen so its not all glassy and greasy and Belive it or not, it still feels 5.8!
By jim.dangle
Oct 24, 2011

This is a fun little climb-- not sure it is even 60 feet though. The directions are a bit out of date as there is no jagged tree to step over anymore. Basically just a walk a little ways up from Boulder Natural until you meet a large, living, upright pine with a newish white blaze on it, then turn right up the hill. You should see the cliff pretty quickly.

The climb is still pretty clean, though there is still decent size stick wedged tightly in the crack about half way up.

Definitely worth looking for if you are climbing at the lower slabs or upper cliffs and want a little excursion.
By AWinters
Administrator
From: NH
Oct 8, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

If this is 5.8 then The Horn is 5.11! There's no way that they are only a number grade apart..