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Middle Section
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beaver Cleaver T 
C. W. Hicks Direct T 
Camptown Races (variation) T 
Candyland T 
Cat's Pajamas T 
Cinnamon Girl T 
Classic, The T 
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup T 
Coatimundi Whiteout T 
Crack Lover's Variation T 
Deep Yogurt  T 
Good Action S 
Good, Bad, and Ugly (GBU), The T 
Green Savior T 
Gunsmoke T 
Hassayampa T 
Help Me Mr. Wizard T 
High Exposure Exit T,S 
Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux), The T 
Kingpin T 
Magnolia Thunderpussy T 
Once Upon a Time T 
Reunion T 
Said and Done T 
Slammer Jam, The T 
Sweet Acidophilus T 
Tom Thumb T 
Twin Cracks T 
Waterstreak Delight T,S 
Witblitz T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Good, Bad, and Ugly (GBU) 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 500', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: FA A.3, 5.8 Scott Baxter, Karl Karlstrom 1/71, FFA (var pitch 1) Jim Waugh et al 6/86
Season: seasonal closures
Page Views: 2,105
Submitted By: Orphaned on Sep 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Falcon closures. MORE INFO >>>


aid start: climb a short system to a flake to step up and gain the thin crack. This goes clean at C.2, then more brass nuts lead to belay at easy flakes at horizontal system 130' up.
free start, first freed by Ray Ringle in 1981 @ 5.11, the start climbs a thin crack to face moves past bolts (Jim Waugh installed spring 1986) to some good face climbing (5.10) to belay 130'.
p2, easy climbing leads up 50' to the first face crux (5.11) then more balanced moves lead to right facing palming lieback corner protected on RP's and suspect pin (5.12-). p3 often done with Slammer Jam climbs a steep LB corner to roof (10) or step right to flake (also 10-) to summit.


Right of the great roof is an obvious arete. Right of this arete are the thin cracks of GBU.


RP's and standard GM rack

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