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The Good Bad and Dirty 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Ken Trout, 1979
Page Views: 1,117
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on May 20, 2001

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Description 

This is a classic Castlewood hand and finger crack that has seen many aid ascents. Approach via the Cave Trail, then turn left at the base of the cliff, pass under a large block leaning against the cliff and locate the obvious hand crack about 15 feet right of the "cave." This nice line has three cruxes with the last 10d crux at the very top--a memorable climb.

Start on a block to the right of the line, then move up under a small roof for the first crux. A #1 Friend can be placed below the roof in a pocket, and if you reach high, the #0 Friend (or TCU) can be fiddled into the thin crack. An old fixed pin has since pulled out (since the guidebook publishing), but the micro cam was pretty solid (technology, baby). Crank this first roof (9) using face holds up to a large ledge. An old 1/4" bolt is on the ledge for extra security. The second crux (9+) comes in moving off the ledge. The rock is undercut so no good footholds help you get established with a good jam. Anyway, jam (thin hands) to get off the ledge, then move into the meaty part of the route--a nice hand crack. Use a #3 and #4 Friend through this section until you're established below the final roof. A decent armbar rest is possible while you shake out the pump from the jamming below. A good #3 Friend can be placed high in this roof to protect the final moves, which are exciting and exposed.

The anchor on top can be made in a thin crack with small-medium stoppers and a #9 hex. Downclimb via a 4th class ledge system to the North.


Protection 

Some medium stoppers and friends in the following sizes: 0, 1, 3 (two of these), and a 4.



Photos of The Good Bad and Dirty Slideshow Add Photo
Climb the crack to the right of the cave.
BETA PHOTO: Climb the crack to the right of the cave.
The Good the Bad and the Dirty.
BETA PHOTO: The Good the Bad and the Dirty.
Comments on The Good Bad and Dirty Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andy Donson
May 21, 2001

What's the route 30ft to the right with a single high bolt? I don't have the guide. Thanks Andy Donson

By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
May 23, 2001

Comment to Andy Donson: The route with a single bolt to the right of TGTB&TD is called "Time Passages" if we're talking about the same route. It is a 10d finger crack.

By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
Jun 4, 2001

I looked at Peter Hubbel's guide which includes the Wood, and he lists the first roof as 10c, the second as 10a, and the final one as 10c/d. Now that I think about it, the first roof was probably a little harder than 9, but not quite 10c IMO.

By ROC
From: Englewood, CO
Mar 12, 2003

Did this one on top rope. Should have taped up cause the crack shredded my hands. Classic castlewood. Great climb with awesome hand, fist, and finger locks/jams. That last fist crack at the roof is really pumpy but really fun. One of my favorite castlewood cracks.

By Brandon johnson
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
May 11, 2006

Got bored and did this route last weekend. Top roped it just to be on the safe side and didn't really need it. I took the advice of others and taped up my hands, it sure saved my hands cause that is some brutual rock.

By Tom Hanson
Oct 23, 2006

FFA of The Good the Bad and the Dirty: 1979 Ken Trout.
According to Ken, there used to be an old fixed wooden wedge in the crack, and no one knows who did the first aid ascent.

By ROC
From: Englewood, CO
Aug 26, 2007

Finally got the nerve to lead this thing today. What a great climb. Tape well and you have nothing to fear. Watch out for the poison ivy in the crack about 10 feet above the ledge halfway up and also at the good arm bar rest under the roof. The final crux is the toughest and the best...burly, but it's all there.... Good luck!!!