Home to one of the most popular routes in PK, the Golden Wall area is tricky to reach, but worth every effort. Four of the several routes have double-bolted anchors. The amphitheater gathers the sun's heat on cold days, and with so many routes in close proximity is the closest thing to a "gym-like" atmosphere with a group. Routes from 5.6 to 5.12.
Exit the upper parking lot far end, go through the meadow and past the stream, to the large clearing. Turn right on the carriage road, then go left at the immediate fork. Follow the carriage road to where it starts to curve back; you'll see a blue/yellow triple blaze leading straight off towards some large boulders (bouldering area). Get to the first boulder and turn left off the blazed trail, heading towards the cliff. Aim for a small overhang close to the ground; there'll be a thick tree just to the right. Climb up a slab of rock past the tree (under a tree branch), cross a gap by stepping in the crotch of another tree, and emerge facing a tall, yellow wall with a large offwidth crack directly ahead and a fingercrack in a dihedral about 30 feet right of the offwidth. Approach is about 10 minutes if you know where to go; much longer, otherwise.
13 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in The Golden Wall
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Golden Wall:
Slot Machine 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Jam On! 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Skink 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Scoop Arete 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Scoop Face 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Stinky Americans 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
The Golden Dream 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Fickle Fingers 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Barndance, a.k.a. Crankmaster T's Arete 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Featured Route For The Golden Wall
The Golden Dream 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a NY : The Gunks : ... : The Golden Wall
A fully-sustained fingercrack in a dihedral, that starts off just barely slab and ends up just barely overhanging. THE best 5.9 I've ever climbed. Also, the climb on the cover of the Peterskill guide....[more] Browse More Classics in NY
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