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The Golden Monkey
5.10b/c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British R
Avg: 3.2 from 16
votes
Routes in The Upper Great Face
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A Few Moments of Pleasure T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Big Steep, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Brass Junkie T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Forgotten Pulse T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Golden Monkey, The T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Golden Staircase, pitches 12, 13, 14, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Hotness, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Paul's Boutique T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Tomfoolery S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Wiffle Ball Bat S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Paul Foster, Bob Jasperson, Bernard Gillett |
| Page Views: | 3,506 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Bob Jasperson on Aug 6, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Area Closure ended but timed entry permits are REQUIRED
Details
Per Julius Beres & Matt B: $2 timed entry permits issued by RMNP are definitely required if you arrive after 9a and before 3p.
Per Bob Siegrist: as of 6/11/20, the parking areas are no longer blocked off. RMNP is open.
Per Matt B: this area is currently closed to all visitors due to temporary RMNP closures. The entire parking area is blocked off. Please do not threaten access to this area by climbing during this closure to all visitors.
Per Bob Siegrist: as of 6/11/20, the parking areas are no longer blocked off. RMNP is open.
Per Matt B: this area is currently closed to all visitors due to temporary RMNP closures. The entire parking area is blocked off. Please do not threaten access to this area by climbing during this closure to all visitors.
Description
This indistinct line begins about 25 feet left of the huge buttress in the middle of the Upper Great Face, between the Kor-Northcutt on the right and The Big Steep on the left, and finishes with the beautiful headwall beneath the summit.
Pitch 1: Turn a small roof on the left or right (gear) and climb past two bolts to a ledge. Continue upwards (gear) past two more bolts (crux) to a left-facing corner that defines the left side of a "V"-shaped wedge (the right side of the "V" is the obvious slot on the Kor-Northcutt). Climb this corner and stretch the rope to the lowest point of a large ledge system that traverses the upper region of the face (5.10b/c R; 200 feet).
Pitch 2: Climb the vertical headwall above to anchors (sporty 5.9+; 10 bolts; bring midrange cams for placements above the bolts; 110 feet).
Descent: Rap to The Big Steep anchors (slightly north) on the large ledge system. A single 60-meter rope just barely reaches these anchors -- tie a knot. Rap again to another set of anchors on The Big Steep (single rope) or to the ground (double).
Pitch 1: Turn a small roof on the left or right (gear) and climb past two bolts to a ledge. Continue upwards (gear) past two more bolts (crux) to a left-facing corner that defines the left side of a "V"-shaped wedge (the right side of the "V" is the obvious slot on the Kor-Northcutt). Climb this corner and stretch the rope to the lowest point of a large ledge system that traverses the upper region of the face (5.10b/c R; 200 feet).
Pitch 2: Climb the vertical headwall above to anchors (sporty 5.9+; 10 bolts; bring midrange cams for placements above the bolts; 110 feet).
Descent: Rap to The Big Steep anchors (slightly north) on the large ledge system. A single 60-meter rope just barely reaches these anchors -- tie a knot. Rap again to another set of anchors on The Big Steep (single rope) or to the ground (double).
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