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The Golden Egg 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Scott Ayers, Eden Masters
Season: all
Page Views: 2,153
Submitted By: zach on May 30, 2006
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climbing The Golden Egg

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Photos of The Golden Egg Slideshow Add Photo
Amara on Golden Egg
Amara on Golden Egg
my crappy topo of The Golden Egg
BETA PHOTO: my crappy topo of The Golden Egg
Jeremiah Johnston climbing the Golden Egg.
Jeremiah Johnston climbing the Golden Egg.
myself leading the arÍte. fun climb definitely a must do
myself leading the arÍte. fun climb definitely a m...
Kray cleaning the golden egg in the dark post-after school session.
Kray cleaning the golden egg in the dark post-afte...
Comments on The Golden Egg Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 19, 2013
By jbak
May 30, 2006

So where's the bivvy on this grade V ?

By zach
From: Tucson, AZ; Red Wing, MN
Jun 5, 2006

i was just kidding ;)

By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 29, 2006

For duh fellas from duh nort country it could look like a grade five eh Zach.

By Scott Tucker
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 4, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Fun climb. First bolt is a long ways up. There's a crack, use it as needed (or not). Getting to the anchors was the crux. The holds pretty much stop before that and it was an awkward move to clip. I contemplated setting up a portaledge and sending the last 5 feet after a good night's sleep. It could be a grade V.

By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Jun 12, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

I definitely recommend using a cam or two to get to the first bolt(maybe a stick clip would reach?). After that it is well protected with about 8 or 9 bolts + 2 rap anchors(one has two chain links). I pulled the top on the right, almost totally on the arete. Good route.

By Braxtron
From: ...
Jun 4, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

The first bolt is about 15' off the ground. If you are comfortable leading 5.8, there's no need to worry about getting up to it.

By Joe Kreidel
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 4, 2009

One of the best climbs of the grade I've done on the mountain.

By jeffrey c gibson
From: pheonix az
Oct 7, 2010

some lady stopped and waisted all of her disposable camera on me

By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 17, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

we got hit with a surprise thunder storm yesterday and had to leave 3 draws on this route. if anyone is in the vicinity this week i offer tribute of beer to get them down. we should be able to get them by next weekend if they're still up there, but if anyone sees them please don't consider them booty--consider them a six-pack of your choice. =)

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Sep 11, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13

Climbing is easy right off the ground but gets a little trickier near the first bolt, especially if you're shorter or the draw is not in yet. Thought there might be some handjams up there but it's flared. 5.10 climbers should be OK.

By Kyle O
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 19, 2013

Fun climb with a sweet summit. Whats up with the glue on the nuts/top of the expansion bolts though?