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s. The Golden Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barndance, a.k.a. Crankmaster T's Arete TR 
Chris' Cringe or Hatti's Horror TR 
Completely Francois TR 
Fickle Fingers T,TR 
Golden Dream, The T,TR 
Jam On! T,TR 
Sinister Urge (formerly SLAM Dance) T 
Slot Machine T,TR 
Stinky Americans T,TR 
Super Skink TR 
Time for Therapy T,TR 

The Golden Dream 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 8,616
Submitted By: Taino on Dec 20, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (92)
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BETA PHOTO: Golden Dream from the top of Skink


A fully-sustained fingercrack in a dihedral, that starts off just barely slab and ends up just barely overhanging. THE best 5.9 I've ever climbed. Also, the climb on the cover of the Peterskill guide.


Climb the fingercrack in the obvious left-facing dihedral on the right end of the Golden Wall alcove. Easy to walk off.


G-rated - it's a sustained fingercrack. There is a double-bolted anchor at the top.

Photos of The Golden Dream Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Stuart Koonce having fun.
Stuart Koonce having fun.
Rock Climbing Photo: Golden Dream
BETA PHOTO: Golden Dream
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the top.
Nearing the top.
Rock Climbing Photo: Great lead up an awesome corner.
Great lead up an awesome corner.

Comments on The Golden Dream Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jasonn
Dec 28, 2009

This is the best dihedral I have climbed in a while!
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 30, 2010

Truly G-rated. I am a nimrod for not leading this climb. It's beautiful, sustained and eats gear from bottom to top. Super climb.
By AWinters
From: NH
Nov 24, 2010

very worthy indeed
By BrianRH
From: Jersey City, NJ
Jun 23, 2011

A rare treat for the Gunks where high quality "G" climb are relatively rare. If only it were longer.
By Anthony Nguyen
From: Philadelphia
Nov 18, 2011

Beautiful climb that makes the Golden Wall worth revisiting from time to time.
By Logan Schiff
From: Brooklyn, NY
Jul 14, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great climb. Obviously G, and easy to place gear at the crux, but was pretty pumpy placing gear in the last twenty feet or so.
By Alex Ch
From: Fairfield, CT
Jul 19, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

this is not sustained, despite popular belief. short and fun.
By Esuf
May 6, 2015

So there is a bolted anchor at the top? So how would I climb this? Pitch an anchor through the bolts or can I lead and then top rope from that or both?
By Gunkiemike
May 12, 2015

Esuf - the internet isn't the place to learn how to set up a TR on bolts (or otherwise use them in the course of your climbing); I think if you go take a look at the route and the bolts, you'll understand what's needed. If not, consider spending a day with someone who can teach you the basics.

I'll just point out that the bolts are Peterskill are generally NOT the sort you'd find atop a sport route, where you can often drop the rope in a pair of shuts (or hooks or fixed biners) and lower off.

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