Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Golden Wall
Select Route:
Barndance, a.k.a. Crankmaster T's Arete 
Fickle Fingers 
Golden Dream, The 
Jam On! 
Scoop Arete 
Scoop Face 
Sinister Urge (formerly SLAM Dance) 
Skink 
Skink Redirect 
Slot Machine 
Stinky Americans 
Super Skink 
Time for Therapy 

The Golden Dream 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 5,899
Submitted By: Taino on Dec 20, 2006
Good Page? 1 person likes this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (54)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Golden Dream

Description 

A fully-sustained fingercrack in a dihedral, that starts off just barely slab and ends up just barely overhanging. THE best 5.9 I've ever climbed. Also, the climb on the cover of the Peterskill guide.


Location 

Climb the fingercrack in the obvious left-facing dihedral on the right end of the Golden Wall alcove. Easy to walk off.


Protection 

G-rated - it's a sustained fingercrack. There is a double-bolted anchor at the top.



Photos of The Golden Dream Slideshow Add Photo
Stuart Koonce having fun.
Stuart Koonce having fun.
Nearing the top.
Nearing the top.
Comments on The Golden Dream Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jasonn
Dec 28, 2009

This is the best dihedral I have climbed in a while!

By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 30, 2010

Truly G-rated. I am a nimrod for not leading this climb. It's beautiful, sustained and eats gear from bottom to top. Super climb.

By Adam Winters
Administrator
From: the Shire
Nov 24, 2010

very worthy indeed

By BrianRH
Jun 23, 2011

A rare treat for the Gunks where high quality "G" climb are relatively rare. If only it were longer.

By Anthony Nguyen
From: Philadelphia
Nov 18, 2011

Beautiful climb that makes the Golden Wall worth revisiting from time to time.

By Logan Schiff
From: NY, NY
Jul 14, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Great climb. Obviously G, and easy to place gear at the crux, but was pretty pumpy placing gear in the last twenty feet or so.