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The Gold Card
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13
Avg: 4 from 1
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Routes in Main Wall
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Amba T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Bengal Spice T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Gold Card Indirect, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gold Card, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Respect Your Elders T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | David Fay |
| Page Views: | 1,376 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | David F. on Sep 25, 2014 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
The Gold Card Direct starts at the same place as The Gold Card Indirect and takes the striking line up the center of the main wall for a full 30 meter pitch. Climb through golden, bulletproof granite using a mix of crack and face technique. At mid-height, place a few bomber pieces, and then step up into the dihedral. Work out what parts of the crack to use for gear and what parts to use for your fingers. Consider fishing in a nut above your head before committing to the hard climbing. Smear, layback, and stem up the dihedral. Clip the fixed piton, and make a delicate move left before the roof.
This route was originally climbed in the headpoint style of rehearsing all of the moves and gear on top rope before getting on the sharp end.
This route was originally climbed in the headpoint style of rehearsing all of the moves and gear on top rope before getting on the sharp end.
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