The God’s Must Think I’m Crazy  5.11

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet Consensus:  5.11 [details] FA:  Arjun Heimsath and David Sampson New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  arjunmh on Nov 25, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Ropes dangling the route after initial solo settin...

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Description 

Mixed route protected with added bolts. The first climb in the God Head Area. Located on the left side of a tall wide tower. This long fun route ascends the obvious west, north-west facing arête. Route was originally set by AMH while rope soloing. Ground-up attempt was aborted at a narrow ledge to the right of the overhanging crux. Some bolts were added solo from top-rope and the route sent with a slightly different route. When DAS followed it became clear that the line was not ideal and we moved the only two bolts and added 3 bolts to protect the crux. There are two ledges on this climb.

Thin bolt protected crux moves above the first ledge gets you established on the upper portion of the arête over slightly overhanging rock. To be safe you will probably want to place a 0.5 or 0.75” cam towards the top of the crux sequence in the ample horizontal cracks that are bomber. From the large top ledge climb 15 more feet to get to the anchors. Small to medium cams. Rap from anchors into the gulley. A 60 m rope gets you to easy down climbing back to base of the climb. Or, rap left to a ledge to access Fear No Evil.

Location 

The farthest north arête of Godhead North, see route map for location relative to others.

Protection 

5-7 bolts protect small to medium cam placements that are tricky and insecure down low and bomber up high. Save a 0.25 or 0.3 to clear the upper face to anchors. A medium cam helps protect the long crux.

Photos of The God’s Must Think I’m Crazy Slideshow

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Geir ready to start, Jim belaying...	Warming up, lower section.	Geir still warming up, boy it's nice to have all t...
Ok, here's the business, time to regroup.	Geir sailing the crux, reading the moves just perf...	Nice last bit of rest before the final crux push.
And Geir has the first onsight almost in the bag.	Geir on top of Godhead North, sweet!!	Jimbo warming up, Geir belaying.
Jimbo in the middle ground.	Jimbo cranking through the crux.	Jimbo on the top after his flash of the route