Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Godhead North
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Fear No Evil S 
Godís Must Think Iím Crazy, The T,S 
Hallelujah S 
Jam of Doom T 
Low Hanging Fruit T 
Wanger Hanger T 
Wind Up on Sundays S 

The Godís Must Think Iím Crazy 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Arjun Heimsath and David Sampson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 235
Submitted By: arjunmh on Nov 25, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Nice last bit of rest before the final crux push.

Description 

Mixed route protected with added bolts. The first climb in the God Head Area. Located on the left side of a tall wide tower. This long fun route ascends the obvious west, north-west facing arÍte. Route was originally set by AMH while rope soloing. Ground-up attempt was aborted at a narrow ledge to the right of the overhanging crux. Some bolts were added solo from top-rope and the route sent with a slightly different route. When DAS followed it became clear that the line was not ideal and we moved the only two bolts and added 3 bolts to protect the crux. There are two ledges on this climb.

Thin bolt protected crux moves above the first ledge gets you established on the upper portion of the arÍte over slightly overhanging rock. To be safe you will probably want to place a 0.5 or 0.75Ē cam towards the top of the crux sequence in the ample horizontal cracks that are bomber. From the large top ledge climb 15 more feet to get to the anchors. Small to medium cams. Rap from anchors into the gulley. A 60 m rope gets you to easy down climbing back to base of the climb. Or, rap left to a ledge to access Fear No Evil.


Location 

The farthest north arÍte of Godhead North, see route map for location relative to others.


Protection 

5-7 bolts protect small to medium cam placements that are tricky and insecure down low and bomber up high. Save a 0.25 or 0.3 to clear the upper face to anchors. A medium cam helps protect the long crux.



Photos of The Godís Must Think Iím Crazy Slideshow Add Photo
And Geir has the first onsight almost in the bag.
And Geir has the first onsight almost in the bag.
Jimbo cranking through the crux.
Jimbo cranking through the crux.
Warming up, lower section.
Warming up, lower section.
Jimbo warming up, Geir belaying.
Jimbo warming up, Geir belaying.
Geir still warming up, boy it's nice to have all these new bolts!
Geir still warming up, boy it's nice to have all t...
Geir ready to start, Jim belaying...
Geir ready to start, Jim belaying...
Ok, here's the business, time to regroup.
Ok, here's the business, time to regroup.
Geir on top of Godhead North, sweet!!
Geir on top of Godhead North, sweet!!
Geir sailing the crux, reading the moves just perfectly!
Geir sailing the crux, reading the moves just perf...
Jimbo in the middle ground.
Jimbo in the middle ground.
Ropes dangling the route after initial solo setting of route.
Ropes dangling the route after initial solo settin...
Jimbo on the top after his flash of the route
Jimbo on the top after his flash of the route
Comments on The Godís Must Think Iím Crazy Add Comment
Show which comments
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Oct 30, 2012

Watching Geir sail the onsight of this yesterday was a real treat! There are more bolts than I remember placing and I imagine the PG13 rating can be removed, as well as the difficulty as the crux is now bolted. How cool to have Geir and Jimbo out there and nail this!

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 30, 2012

Terrific exposure on a gorgeous feature. Kudos to Arjun for a strong ground up FA on this route. Singles to .75 Camalot are fine to protect this route. With the added bolts the climb protects well. I used a blue alien to protect the final moves after the ledge.

By David Arthur Sampson
Nov 13, 2012

Awesome send Geir! What an on-sight; it was fun to watch!

By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Nov 19, 2012

Another elegant and graceful send of this route yesterday by Jimbo. Nicely done!

By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Feb 10, 2014

Finally got back on this one too and it's terrific. Definitely much easier than originally thought and the added bolts help it climb smoothly and without stress. A great topout to oversee the whole Refuge! Didn't place anything larger than a #1 and may not have even placed that. A few small cams down to a C3 0 certainly would be nice and the 0.5 or 0.75 helps the runout through the crux section.