2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
It's hard to believe no one has climbed this before, but there were no traces, nor is it listed anywhere. It should at least be posted.
The climb is located on the northwest corner of the lower buttress (the one Huston's Crack is one). The climb is between the small pine tree (to the left) high on the wall, and the large pine tree (to the right) growing very close (2 feet) to the wall.
Climb a 10ft finger crack which ends in an open book. The crack inside of the open book splits (one to the left, one to the right) just below the overhang. Do whatever you need to to follow the left crack out onto the east face (crux) (basically climb to the small tree) When you get to the tree go right and under that tree to summit. Take easy terrain to the belay point
This climb would be a great way to start East Edge, instead of just scrambling up.
This route can either be done trad or top rope. Trad will need cams to 2" Toprope by scrambling up as if going to East Edge and rig up the anchor as far out as you feel comfortable
Good route, but scary walk off. I would really love to try this route straight up instead of going left towards the tree. Does anyone have any beta? Seems like a pretty cruxy move(s) with zero gear and a potential fall on to a ledge (and then the ground).