|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 300'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|Season:||Fall thru Spring|
|Submitted By:||Mike on May 17, 2006|
|PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on The Glory Road||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jan 9, 2012
Did this route over the weekend, its a great entry to trad leading if you want some fun climbing with good opportunities to place gear. There are 2 bolts at the first belay station now. had to bail after 2 pitches ran out of time.
this would be a great climb early summer as the wall is shaded all afternoon.
By ryan albery
Jan 22, 2012
I wouldn't suggest this route to someone who is breaking into 5.7 on gear, unless you're solid on sport .9 and familiar with climbing on rhyolyte. Most of the good placements are fidgeting in small wires, especially offsets (.2-.4"), into the bottom of old pin scars. Crux for me was getting a shoulder into the offwidth on pitch 2. Felt like 5.8.
Two bolts with rap links atop 1st pitch, and a big boulder slung with webbing (and a rap ring) atop pitch two. Excellent rock, and fun climbing.