The Glory Road
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|PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! MORE INFO >>>|
The first 2 pitches are great, the last 2 not so great. P1: Climb the open book to a large ledge with a bolt. 5.6 P2: Climb down and right to another dihedral, this one with a small overhang. Up the dihedral, pull the small overhang (5.7, a bit awkward but easy) then face & crack to a belay ledge. P3: Traverse right and slightly down (3rd & 4th class) to a moderate crack. Follow the crack up to a belay ledge. P4: Head up the chimney, then up and left to reach the belay bolts atop the wall.
Start right of The Long Lead beneath a shallow, right-facing corner, just left of of a smooth, blank wall. Descent is either to scramble to The Long Lead descent or make a short rappel west, then scramble west, then down & around to the start of the climb.
Natural anchors with a few fixed pins. Bring a standard rack.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at beginning of first pitch
On the traverse at the beginning of pitch 2.
|Comments on The Glory Road
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jan 9, 2012
Did this route over the weekend, its a great entry to trad leading if you want some fun climbing with good opportunities to place gear. There are 2 bolts at the first belay station now. had to bail after 2 pitches ran out of time.
this would be a great climb early summer as the wall is shaded all afternoon.
|By ryan albery|
Jan 22, 2012
I wouldn't suggest this route to someone who is breaking into 5.7 on gear, unless you're solid on sport .9 and familiar with climbing on rhyolyte. Most of the good placements are fidgeting in small wires, especially offsets (.2-.4"), into the bottom of old pin scars. Crux for me was getting a shoulder into the offwidth on pitch 2. Felt like 5.8.
Two bolts with rap links atop 1st pitch, and a big boulder slung with webbing (and a rap ring) atop pitch two. Excellent rock, and fun climbing.