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The Glory Hole

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blood Raid S 
Devil Doll S 
In the Flat Field S 
Lactic Acid Bath S 
Massacre S 
Mojo Hand S 
Skull Fuck S 
Skull Fuck Direct Finish S 
Yowsah S 

The Glory Hole  


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Page Views: 9,067
Administrators: Chris Whisenhunt, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 11, 2007
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Chad Umbel going for a burn on the ulra classic Bl...

Description 

Collection of HARD sport lines that are all super fun.
Ultra classic LAB is a must do at 5.12d.

This wall offers up a bounty of routes for the hard-body rock guide during the sweltering summers.

Many of the classics here have fixed chains instead of fixed quickdraws because of recent scares of fixed draws breaking across the way at The Cirque on Endless Wall. Not all the climbs here have the chains, so make sure you inspect the fixed draws before you trust them with your life.

Getting There 

Park at Rogers take east trail down towards old coal mines

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.8 miles from here

9 Total Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',5],['5.13',4],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Glory Hole:
Yowsah   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Skull Fuck   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport   
Devil Doll   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport   
Lactic Acid Bath   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport   
Blood Raid   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in The Glory Hole

Featured Route For The Glory Hole
Bryan Ferris on LAB. Photo Joseph Lascurain

Lactic Acid Bath 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : The Glory Hole
At the back of the huge overhang, near the center, climb poor, vert rock to a bolt, then head out into the inverted world, passing eight more bolts on your way to the anchors. Don't miss the hands-free rest... not for the faint of heart or imagination-challenged. This climb will seriously push you and you might feel like throwing up towards the end or on the lower crux.Crux is a sequential series of underclings that traverse out and right that will force your eyeballs out of their sockets....[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

Photos of The Glory Hole Slideshow Add Photo
The Glory Hole, after bailing
The Glory Hole, after bailing
The Glory Hole.  Rope is on Skull Fuck.  LAB/Massacre is the line on the left that ends in the flared corner, Blood Raid is the next line right, then Skull Fuck, then Yowsah (traversing left from the big chimney).
The Glory Hole. Rope is on Skull Fuck. LAB/Massa...

Comments on The Glory Hole Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 2, 2009
For anyone looking for dry rock in the rain, this area stays dry during rain, however the rock tends to seep after a heavy rain. Even if it looks dry, many of the holds tend to be pretty clammy.
By Jonathan Metzman
From: Blacksburg, VA
Aug 29, 2013
As of 8/28/13 or earlier nearly every route besides the less traveled ones (burning cross, scar lover, against the grain) have brand new permadraws! Whip away!!