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Glen Canyon

Select Route:
Broken Bow Arch T 
Cheesebox, The T 
Chimney Rock 
Don't Do That Spire T 
Giant Vagina, The T 
Hole-lee Crack T 
Middle Finger Tower, The T 
Sandcastle, The T 

Glen Canyon Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.7642, -110.4881 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 13,798
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Bill Duncan on Aug 24, 2006
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Bouldering in the middle of Nowhere . . . (actuall...


The Glen Canyon NRA is an immense area that spans from northern Arizona all the way up to the Canyonlands National Park, and from near Escalante all the way to the Goosenecks near Mexican Hat. Before the dam was completed in 1963, there were hundreds of miles of canyons that no doubt contained some incredible climbs and other magical adventures. The canyons are long since flooded, but there is still a tremendous opportunity for remote adventures here. A little exploration goes a long way out here in the desolation of the high desert. Notable areas are the Escalante region and the Waterpocket Fold, the canyons of the San Juan River, and north one has the Dirty Devil, Rock Canyon, Andy Miller Flats, and the magnificent gorge of Cataract Canyon.

Getting There 

The established climbs are in the Escalante area (Willow Canyon), and atop Andy Miller Flats. There are unclimbed towers and spires in this vast area, but you must put your adventure hat on to find them.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 5.6 miles from here

8 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',1]

Featured Route For Glen Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: The Middle Finger Spire

The Middle Finger Tower 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3-  UT : Glen Canyon
The route starts on the south side of the spire. The original description:Climb a short 5.8-9 dihedral to get to the good ledge (the knuckle). The route follows the obvious weakness above, which is a crack that start on top of a large square block and zig-zags up. Use some bird beaks, and thin to medium pins or clean aid to get to the shoulder. A couple of beaks in drilled holes get you close to the summit.Newer/better description courtesy of Crusher (thanks!):1. Climb crack in a dihedral, 5.8,...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Glen Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Float trip on the Dirty Devil. Photo by Randall We...
Float trip on the Dirty Devil. Photo by Randall We...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Middle Finger atop Andy Miller Flats
The Middle Finger atop Andy Miller Flats
Rock Climbing Photo: Broken Bow Arch
Broken Bow Arch
Rock Climbing Photo: High desert at sunset
High desert at sunset
Rock Climbing Photo: Lone Rock has a weakness...or I do
Lone Rock has a weakness...or I do

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