The Gill Problem (AKA Vast Understatement)  V1

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Type:  Boulder, 25 feet Consensus:  V1 [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Robert Dominguez on Oct 11, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Grabbing for the pinches.

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Description 

This problem was said to have been put up by John Gill himself. However, as stated in the DCA--he didn't. That's why I like the alternate name for this problem: Vast Understatement. Start out under the obvious mantle. Wedge your right hand in the chalked crack, split with left foot on decent foot hold and reach up for a weary slopper, then match. For the taller climber, the next part is a simple static, for the shorter--a dynamic move is in order. A deep jug is up and to the right about a two and a half or three feet above the matched hold you're on. This move is the crux. Stick the hold, match, and work your feet up. Sit your feet, into the dish that you matched on before the crux. Lean in, grab the pinches on either side and scramble up to the top.

The jug that you have to stick for the crux is AWESOME! Check it out from above first if you want to get an idea for where your next hold is.

Location 

Walk in and when you see the OZZY graffiti on the Ozzy boulder, look to your left. See pictures for more info.

Protection 

A thick pad and a decent spotter with good depth perception. There's a slope behind you--falling on this one sucks. Watch out for the dicey top out--gotta know where those pinches are.