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Keyhole Cliff area
Routes Sorted
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Clune Crank 
Cronin Face 
Dr V 
Gill Crack (AKA The Brat Gill Variation) 
Gill Egg (AKA Gillís Route), The 
Gill Pinch Roof 
Keyhole Crack Left 
Keyhole Crack Right 
Keyhole Offwidth 
Larsen's Problem 
Stacious 
Three Fools 
Winter's Agony 
Unsorted Routes:

The Gill Egg (AKA Gillís Route) 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

   
Type:  Boulder, 12'
Consensus:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: John Gill?
Page Views: 3,467
Submitted By: Anthony Baraff on Aug 12, 2009

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me chucking the dyno on gill egg v5

Description 

Are all of John Gillís routes this good, or did he have the good sense to only attach his name to the classics? I guess it doesnít matter; as is the case with the other problems that bear his name in this area, this is a must do. Start on the rock below the egg. Work your hands up to the small incut holds on the lip of the egg. Climb to the top. If only it were that easy!

Location 

A few feet before the Clune Crank boulder and the Keyhole Cliff wall.

Protection 

Pad


Photos of The Gill Egg (AKA Gillís Route) Slideshow Add Photo
You want to keep your left hand on the hold even though it's a dyno -- you can almost do it statically.
You want to keep your left hand on the hold even t...
Gill Egg on a 20 degree day
Gill Egg on a 20 degree day
Tyler working his feet into position before shooting for the good high dish.
Tyler working his feet into position before shooti...
The Far left side of the Keyhole Cliff area: 1. Three Fools (V3), 2. Dr. V (V0-), 3. The Egg (V7), 4. The Gill Egg (V4)
BETA PHOTO: The Far left side of the Keyhole Cliff area: 1. Th...
Heel hook left. You may want your right foot lower than I have it.
Heel hook left. You may want your right foot lower...
Dyno!
Dyno!
I think they actually rated this problem vfun
I think they actually rated this problem vfun

Comments on The Gill Egg (AKA Gillís Route) Add Comment
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By Anthony Baraff
From: Paris, France
Aug 12, 2009

So, I've heard from someone that you're only supposed to use the two incut holds on the right of the egg--implying that the sloper on the nose and just to the left side of the nose are off. I definitely find it easier to use the one on the left side of the nose. What's the consensus out there about how the problem is "supposed" to be done?
By Eric8
From: Framingham
Sep 27, 2009

Not having a guidebook or anything I used the left side. I think it feels the most natural this way, otherwise its not much of an "egg" type boulder problem. It also lets you get your feet off the starting rock wall and onto the egg section before the move to the jug. It did however feel quite easy for the grade doing it this way.
By David Stowe
Sep 28, 2009

Using the left side is V2, V3 at most. The V4 version of the Egg goes straight up the front side using the crimpers which is significantly harder than using the left side.
By rgold
From: Poughkeepsie, NY
Feb 6, 2010

Gill only used the crimpers and the bucket, nothing on the nose or around the corner (I was there). Check out the picture posted in the comments on Larsen's problem.

Gill did have a wonderful eye for boulder problems, but his Gunks visit was only for two or three days. Who knows what other classics he might have done if he had more time?
By bheller
From: SL UT
Oct 4, 2010
rating: V4 6B

One shot, one kill! Such an elegantly classic dynamic problem.