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Routes in Tombstone
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Coffin Dodger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C1 |
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Coffin Dodger Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Epitaph, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Family Plot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1 |
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Gift, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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Keswick Lads Day Out. T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3 |
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R.I.P. 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A2+ R |
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Rigor Mortis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2 |
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Tres Gatos T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0 |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 360 ft (109 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | 14th Oct 2002. Paul Ross Paul Marshall (UK) var leads |
| Page Views: | 2,826 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Paul Ross on Oct 13, 2002 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
The route is located on the Tombstone formation about one mile east of Lost World Butte. See new Desert Rock Guide IV. This route 'The Gift' was put up after the guide was printed. The first pitch, a 200' perfect corner, was led by Paul Marshall - a Brit. This was his very first climb in the US after arriving in Grand Junction the night before, and his first route on sandstone.
The Gift.III 5.9+ C2 360' The climb takes the big open corner about 100' left of 'Keswick Lads Day Out'.
1) Easy 30' to a bolt at the foot of the corner. A mixture of small cams, wires, and bolts for 40'. Then camhooks lead to better placements to a belay in the Eagles nest. 200' C2
2) Continue 20' up an overhanging groove, and then traverse right along a horizontal crack for 60' to an anchor below good cracks. 80' C2
3) Follow cracks to a big ledge. 80' 5.9+ C1
The corner on the right of ledge leads to the rap anchors and a scramble to the summit register on Keswick Lads Day Out route. 2 raps to ground - USE two 60m ropes.
The Gift.III 5.9+ C2 360' The climb takes the big open corner about 100' left of 'Keswick Lads Day Out'.
1) Easy 30' to a bolt at the foot of the corner. A mixture of small cams, wires, and bolts for 40'. Then camhooks lead to better placements to a belay in the Eagles nest. 200' C2
2) Continue 20' up an overhanging groove, and then traverse right along a horizontal crack for 60' to an anchor below good cracks. 80' C2
3) Follow cracks to a big ledge. 80' 5.9+ C1
The corner on the right of ledge leads to the rap anchors and a scramble to the summit register on Keswick Lads Day Out route. 2 raps to ground - USE two 60m ropes.
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