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Paul Marshall on F.A. of The Gift, Utah
The route is located on the Tombstone formation about one mile east of Lost World Butte. See new Desert Rock Guide IV. This route 'The Gift' was put up after the guide was printed. The first pitch, a 200' perfect corner, was led by Paul Marshall - a Brit. This was his very first climb in the US after arriving in Grand Junction the night before, and his first route on sandstone.
The Gift.III 5.8+ C2 360' The climb takes the big open corner about 100' left of 'Keswick Lads Day Out'.
1) Easy 30' to a bolt at the foot of the corner. A mixture of small cams, wires, and bolts for 40'. Then camhooks lead to better placements to a belay in the Eagles nest. 200' C2
2) Continue 20' up an overhanging groove, and then traverse right along a horizontal crack for 60' to an anchor below good cracks. 80' C2
3) Follow cracks to a big ledge. 80' 5.8+ C1
The corner on the right of ledge leads to the rap anchors and a scramble to the summit register on Keswick Lads Day Out route. 2 raps to ground - USE two 60m ropes.
4 leeper cam hooks.
Two 0 aliens, two 0 friends, three .05, 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5" cams, two 4", one 5" and 6". One set of stoppers.
By Little Chamonix
Jan 14, 2014
No reported second ascent as of 2014