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West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aftershock 
Atom Smasher 
Break on Through 
Break On Through to Chianti 
Chianti 
Clear-a-Sill 
Cruisin' for Burgers 
Ein Kluck 
Ghetto Blaster 
Gibbet, The 
Incarnation 
Long John Wall 
Next to Nearly 
Rictus 
Rock For Climbing Routes To 
Shock Of the New 
Strawberry Shortcut 
Sunshine Wall 
Toothsheaf Transfusion 
Unlead, The 
Unsaid, The 
Uranus 
Varieties Of Religious Experience 
Washington Irving 
White Rabbit 

The Gibbet 

5.11-

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Consensus: 5.11- [details]
FA: Steve Levin & Aaron Lucas, September 2007
New Route: Yes
Submitted By: Steve Levin on Sep 25, 2007

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Description 

Climb shattered but easy rock to the base of a 6-foot roof with a finger crack out it. Pull the roof to a horn at the lip (crux), then follow the crack as it diagonals right past a small tree to a wad of slings on a horn (an old rap anchor used by climbers descending slabs east from Long John Wall).

Led ground-up.


Location 

This route is located on the south face of Long John Wall tower, right of and below Weevil's Walk and The Wizard. It can be approached from the top of Washington Irving, or by climbing slabs west of the Kloof Alcove.


Protection 

Wires to 2". Rappel 75 feet from the wad 'o slings back to the slabs.