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Owl's Head Cliff (Oliverian Notch)
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E9 or Leading Cause variation right side. 
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giant dead tree corner, The 
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The giant dead tree corner 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type: Trad, 5 pitches, 600', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Unknown, 1937
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 202
Submitted By: bradley white on Jul 26, 2009
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Description 

Climb corner 80ft to belay at dead tree. Tree was alive when Ted Hammond and I did the climb to the tree (1981). The rest of the climb from the Dead Tree belay area is a impenetrable bush filled arch directly ahead. On the highest section to these arches I traversed into where was a 1937 style piton in a crack within the corner arch. Crazy bushwhacker? The highest arching corner with it's bottom half elongated bush trees maximizing the space below me. The second time I did the traverse. On that day at the top of the cliff I dislodged a pick up truck block (I had no choice. The first time I did the climb I lay backed the boulder to exit. The second time I grabbed a rock underneath the boulder to lift myself up with. It broke off in my hand and a piece of it was left in place under the boulder the size approximate a golf ball. The boulder shifted onto it and stopped. I climbed left not touching it. Got the rope out of the way and with the lightness push of one finger the boulder did an an air drop 500ft onto the base of this tree. The trees roots held onto what they could consequently a dead upside down pine tree, a plume of powder 900+ft into the air. My second safe from the dangers of that boulder. Very cool plume of powder and a very sad event). I believe the climber who placed the pin was Jensen. Jensen probably traversed into this corner like I did. He could have started far to the right or east in one of the tree and dirt filled corners. There's a lot of rock in this area once a climber gets past these corners off the ground. This dead tree blocks the area from being climbed. 2009 the entire 100ft corner came down as a deep in depth rock slide including the tree. Looks like a good left facing corner crack pitch on solid white rock.


Location 

The next corner east of The Great Circle Route.


Protection 

We rappelled off of the tree while it was living. Energizer's bolted belay is in this area I believe.



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