P1. Climb the main crack on the north face which widens to ~4" through a roof (OW crux). Belay at a small foot ledge about 25' higher (it takes a #2 & #3 Camalot) (5.9+)?
P2. Continue up a double cracks and commit to a layback (5.10a) before crossing to the crack on the left. At a 4" horizontal, head left around the aręte. Enjoy the 360° view as you follow the edge (5.9) to an absolutely perfect belay nook.
P3. This is a short pitch: Begin with a fist crack that joins a left-facing dihedral. Top out and pick through some 4th class terrain to a nice lunch ledge. (5.8+)?
Approach pitch(es) are variable: we approached from the apron nearer to the upper lake after hiking in from the Summit Lake TH, but hiking to the lower lake would probably have been the better route to take. Nevertheless, the beta photo shows our 60m approach pitch and a P1 belay that could probably be higher with a different start point.
Descent: We scrambled to skier's left (more or less west) for about 40 meters, and then skier's right back to a dirty gully that was plainly visible from the lunch ledge. Downclimb the dirty gully, with one committing move (easier if you are taller), and continue to follow the natural fall line. You are ultimately shooting for the lowest grassy ledge that you can see that goes far skier's left. When you cliff out, you will find a large slung block with two FS Mini-biners. The 60m rappel left us with a 60', slabby, 5.6 downclimb to our packs. Also, at the lunch ledge, there was a cairn on the east side (opposite of our descent). We're not sure where that goes, but we couldn't find any slings to the east and it was opposite of the direction of our packs. This is definitely adventure alpine climbing, so be sure to bring webbing and bail gear.
Standard rack up to 4" (we had two #3 & one #4 C4 Camalots).
BETA PHOTO: Our adventurous approach pitches along with a view...
Lunch ledge on top.
Working the OW crux with a pack on. The probable b...
Looking down the fantastic arete on P2.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up P2.
BETA PHOTO: View of the second half of P2.
Jun 28, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
The climbing on this route is quite good, but the approach knocks it down a bit. We soloed a bunch of low fifth class x rated (sometimes wet) slabs to get to it. I would definitely recommend going down to the lower lake and starting from there, as opposed to traversing in from the west. Stays in the shade until about 2PM this time of year.