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 ADVANCED
Sunshine Buttess (aka Wichita Wall)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"Unnamed Arete" S 
Can Do T 
Cerebellum T 
Dirty Sanchez T 
Free Fall T,S 
Gecko, The T,S 
Goofer's Roof T,S 
Jack Straw T,S 
Kanarado Korner T,S 
Reflections T,S 
Scotch on the Rocks S 
Wichita Skyline T,S 
Zig Zag T 

The Gecko 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Rob Griz
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 370
Submitted By: Rob Griz on Aug 14, 2012

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Description 

This is a great mixed line following steepening slab to a fine crack. You could continue up another pitch (25-30m) to the top through easy 5.6-7 trad climbing to a 2-bolt anchor atop Zig Zag. Climb on in honor of the "Gecko", you will be missed, catch you on the other side, buddy! Can Do is the 2nd pitch of this route that heads up through broken terrain to a 2-bolt anchor.

Location 

This is the 2nd route from the left edge of the East Wall where the approach trail hits the wall. The first bolt is 20' up on the slab. A 2 bolt top anchor gets you down the first pitch. A 70m rope just makes it down this single pitch. If doing both pitches, you could rap the 3 anchors on Zig Zag with a 60m rope.

Protection 

7 bolts, Camalots #0.3-1. It has a 2 bolt anchor at the end of the pitch. A 70m rope required. Bring a standard rack if doing the optional 2nd pitch to the top.


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By Mike Bannister
Aug 21, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Good slab climbing with a little spice. Remember your small cams/nuts or it will be very spicy. Griz, I think your 70 is longer than mine. We had to use an intermediary anchor to get down. My rope did not quite hit the ground.