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Project Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Apocalypse '91 S 
Bottom Feeder S 
Defenseless Betty S 
Eighth Day (aka MC 900 FT Jesus), The S 
Fist Full of Dollars S 
Gay Science, The S 
Gayness, The S 
Goofy Foot S 
Hang 'Em High S 
Hang 'Em Higher S 
Irie Meditation S 
Little Monkey S 
Living in Fear S 
Mouse Trap S 
Of Mice and Men S 
Present Tense S 
Rehabilitator S 
Sick Little Monkey S 
Simply Read S 
Simply Redlined S 
Sometimes Always S 
Strange Ranger S 
Top Feeder S 
Twisted S 
Waka Flocka S 
War and Peace S 
Unsorted Routes:

The Gay Science 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Christian Griffith
Page Views: 1,546
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Aug 14, 2005

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Description 

Due to a poor guidebook description, and a lack of chalk, this excellent route is one of the most neglected routes on the [Project Wall]. With intricate moves, improbable holds, and [kneebar-dependent] moves, this route would be a 5-star classic at any other crag.

The Gay Science starts on a prominent blue streak, and continues up the steep, clean, blocky face between Apocalypse 95' and Simply Read. Two bolts of easy climbing bring you to a unique series of underclings that revolve around a tricky kneebar. Once you have gained the break, some big, thuggy moves lead to an insecure boulder problem consisting of marginal pinches, sidepulls and kneebars, with a very long reach out right. Make a couple of more strenuous clips and then tackle the redpoint crux- a lip traverse on small crimpers and slopers, to a sideways dyno. After resting, finish on the fairly straightforward headwall.

Protection 

11 quickdraws including the anchors.


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