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 ADVANCED
Project Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Apocalypse '91 
Bottom Feeder 
Defenseless Betty 
Eighth Day (aka MC 900 FT Jesus), The 
Fist Full of Dollars 
Gay Science, The 
Gayness, The 
Goofy Foot 
Hang 'Em High 
Hang 'Em Higher 
Irie Meditation 
Living in Fear 
Mouse Trap 
Of Mice and Men 
Present Tense 
Rehabilitator 
Sick Little Monkey 
Simply Read 
Simply Redlined 
Sometimes Always 
Strange Ranger 
Top Feeder 
Twisted 
Waka Flocka 
War and Peace 
Unsorted Routes:

The Gay Science 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Christian Griffith
Page Views: 1,352
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Aug 14, 2005
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Description 

Due to a poor guidebook description, and a lack of chalk, this excellent route is one of the most neglected routes on the [Project Wall]. With intricate moves, improbable holds, and [kneebar-dependent] moves, this route would be a 5-star classic at any other crag.

The Gay Science starts on a prominent blue streak, and continues up the steep, clean, blocky face between Apocalypse 95' and Simply Read. Two bolts of easy climbing bring you to a unique series of underclings that revolve around a tricky kneebar. Once you have gained the break, some big, thuggy moves lead to an insecure boulder problem consisting of marginal pinches, sidepulls and kneebars, with a very long reach out right. Make a couple of more strenuous clips and then tackle the redpoint crux- a lip traverse on small crimpers and slopers, to a sideways dyno. After resting, finish on the fairly straightforward headwall.


Protection 

11 quickdraws including the anchors.



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