The Gay Science  5.13d

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.13d [details] FA:  Christian Griffith Submitted By:  Taylor Roy on Aug 14, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Due to a poor guidebook description, and a lack of chalk, this excellent route is one of the most neglected routes on the [Project Wall]. With intricate moves, improbable holds, and [kneebar-dependent] moves, this route would be a 5-star classic at any other crag.

The Gay Science starts on a prominent blue streak, and continues up the steep, clean, blocky face between Apocalypse 95' and Simply Read. Two bolts of easy climbing bring you to a unique series of underclings that revolve around a tricky kneebar. Once you have gained the break, some big, thuggy moves lead to an insecure boulder problem consisting of marginal pinches, sidepulls and kneebars, with a very long reach out right. Make a couple of more strenuous clips and then tackle the redpoint crux- a lip traverse on small crimpers and slopers, to a sideways dyno. After resting, finish on the fairly straightforward headwall.

Protection 

11 quickdraws including the anchors.