The Gates of Lodore
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.1 from 16 votes
Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Luebben and Harper, '98 |
Page Views: | 4,038 total · 35/month |
Shared By: | Skip Harper on Oct 14, 2014 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: Road 700B is closed to vehicular traffic
Details
It appears the USFS has 'semi-permanently' closed off Road 700b to vehicular traffic as of early 2014. That doesn't mean you can't hike the existing road(s) into the formation.
Description
This is the big crack splitting the east face (#1 on FIGURES 1 & 2), going from a body squeezing start to offwidth to hands. It's smooth 'in there' at the start, so either wear a non-skid rubber suit or be ready to exert extra pressure against the opposing faces. Higher up, one must transition out of the fat crack and into a great hand crack. Belay and descend (about 60 feet) from two ring anchors at the top.
Location
It is the East Face of the formation. See the Figs. 1 and 2 for the location of route #1, the climb, and top anchors.
Protection
Take a half rack, doubles in the medium range, and at least 2 #5 Big Bros or equivalent large cams (cams probably preferable , we also used the two largest 'Big Dudes' at the time - it flares!) for the beginning (negotiating this area might be the crux, or maybe higher up where the crack spits you out). (There are anchors at the top).
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