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Wizard's Gate
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The Gatekeeper 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jonathan Siegrist
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,008
Submitted By: Jonathan Siegrist on Sep 5, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the Archer's Perch while Paige Claas...

Description 

Begin on the far left side of the alcove and do a couple moves up and right on a slab to the first bolt. From here, weave up right and then back left on good quality stone through interesting, varied moves to the perch. Be mindful of loose rock while enjoying the killer view and even better rest. Start left of the bolt at the perch and climb the final 30 feet of increasing difficulty on steep rock to the chains. This climb offers an excellent warm up for the hard climbs in the area and also stays completely dry (as do the others in the alcove) during the rain.

Location 

This is to the left of 'Magic Carpet Ride', a hundred feet right of 'Take Me to Your Leader'.

Protection 

8 liberally spaced bolts to chains.


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By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Jul 4, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Absolutely spectacular, steep 'n' exposed on juggy/heel-hooking madness with the crux at the very, very end. Worth the price of the hike alone.

That said, I'm gonna suggest this guy is 11d. It's hard, but with the multiple no-hands rests, it's not nearly as hard as, say, Red Neck Hero, Lyons (mountainproject.com/v/redneck-..., Andrology, Estes--which started out as an 11d (mountainproject.com/v/androlog..., or Sargasso Sea, Boulder (mountainproject.com/v/sargasso....

Having said THAT, my buddy says I'm full 'ave' it and that it's about the experience, not the numbers. So, there you go.

Either way, it's definitely a hero line.
By Colin Kenneth
From: Berkeley, CA
Aug 22, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

This was a really nice bit of climbing. I agree with the above comparison to Andrology. If not for the constant opportunities to rest and really positive holds, I'd call it 12a. But as it stands, if you are expecting the last 20 feet of amped up climbing, you can refuel and prepare for it to wrangle in the difficulty quite a bit. I'd call it the hard end of 11d, because I'm not cool enough to onsight a long 12a like this.
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 20, 2013

I just did this route, and there was some very angry ravens guarding a nest of newborn babies (which happens to sit in the route). Be cautious as the birds were very aggressive and did some gnarly flybys trying to probably peck my eyes out. Made my send pretty exciting though in the midst if being attacked by some big ass birds....
By brett bloxom
From: Estes Park, Colorado
Jul 6, 2013

Really good route. Looks a bit mungy from below but climbs really well. The big ledge below the crux section is covered in raven shit and smells pretty bad. I had two angry ravens screaming at me the whole time. I looked in the nest and didnt see any babies, but be ready to battle some ravens for the chains on this one.