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The Gatehouse

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The Gatehouse 


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Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: dcohn on Jan 11, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: The Gatehouse.

Description 

The Gatehouse is a small, but good winter crag. It gets a lot of afternoon sun and is low on the mountain. There are 10 routes and they all require gear. 7 of them are 5.10 or harder. The quality of climbing makes it worth visiting, despite the difficult approach.


Getting There 

Squeezing the Lemmon describes it pretty well. Go to the second major drainage past Molino Basin campground. As you go up the mountain, there will be a parking pull-off on the left just before this drainage. Walk up the drainage past a very tall formation on the right side. The Gatehouse is just past this and a little higher up. It is not very wide, but you will see bolts on it and a chimney on the left side. The approach is kind of a nasty bushwack so be prepared. It will probably take 30-50 minutes depending on many factors.


Climbing Season


3 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For The Gatehouse

Dead Man Balking 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : The Gatehouse
A few moves over some chossy stuff get you to the base of the dihedral. Follow it up and right to a ledge. It is very fun and protects well. Go left from the ledge and aim for a bolt. The climbing finishes with face moves. If you plan on setting up a TR, bring some long slings to run over the top of the spire from the anchors on Crack Down. Rap down these anchors as well....[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

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