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 ADVANCED
Tyrolean Tower
Select Route:
"The Gap" T,TR 
Last Crack T,TR 
Lone Pine Diagonal  T,TR 
No Way Down T 
No Way Down Direct AKA "Tyrolean Tower"  T,TR 

"The Gap" 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Old School
Page Views: 43
Submitted By: Tradoholic on Apr 18, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: The route can't quite be seen, it's on the south w...

Description 

The Gap is listed in Sven's guidebook as starting in "The Gap" between the south wall of T Tower and a blank face. I started the route on "No Way Down" and belayed my partner to the ledge to do the rest of the route. The 5.8 version goes up a layback crack then right to the corner, a 5.9 version goes straight up (not recommended).

Location 

Climb the first half of "No Way Down" and exit right to a ledge. Find the thin crack and solo to the horizontal.

Protection 

SKETCHY! I brought up a crash pad for the first part and got two ok cams in a horizontal for some weird moves up and right. Belay standing on a small ledge on the corner.


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