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You can either do the same start as Hospital Corner, or start up a grungy corner just to the right of that. first pitch, 5.8. you could also start up the first pitch of Anesthesia (that sparsely, but adequately bolted slab just right of HC, 5.8) You can either build a gear belay on some blocks at the base of the huge flake, or do what we did, which was to build it on the p1 Anesthesia bolted belay, 10 feet to the right. This saves your hand-sized cams you need for higher on the route.
Pitch two starts by pulling up and in on a finger crack, into a shallow corner, 10b crux. Then, you pull up into the steeper hand crack behind a huge flake that is right of HC. The crack here is actually overhanging, and you can even do some chimney moves behind the flake. Good stemming as well. Finishes at the HC bolted anchor.
This is a very fun route. It is a little grungy since it doesn't see the traffic that HC does, but it is quality. If you can do HC, you can do this route.
Rap off. 70m rope necessary to get to HC p1 bolts, 2 60m ropes will get you to the ground in 1 rap.
Note: most guidebooks list this as 5.8. The crux is NOT 5.8.
Just right of Hospital Corner. Route goes up behind the big flake, 20' right of the stellar clean corner.
Standard rack. You will want a #3 Camalot or equivalent, and I think we had the #4 with us as well (memory foggy on this...)
From: San Francisco
Aug 5, 2009
Definitely avoid the direct start to this route (grungy corner just to the right of Hospital Corner), it is dirty, mossy and uneventful.
Also, be careful with the second pitch of this route. I would recommend against belaying at the bolted anchors of Anesthesia or building a gear anchor at the ledge that supertopo recommends.
The bolted anchor is far out to the right and a 20ft traverse past a protruding arete is necessary to access the grungy .10b stemming section needed to access the money section above. Once above that sction, rope drag is bad and the belayer is out of view.
Building a gear anchor on the ledge (as supertopo suggests) would also be a mistake, most cracks are formed by small boulders sitting on the ledge and likely unsafe for gear.
I recommend that who ever does the first pitch, also climbs that .10b dihedral at the end of the end of p1 and belays from the smaller ledge above from a gear anchor.
...or do this in 3 pitches
-p1- First pitch of Anesthasia.
-p2- From bolted anchor belay, traverse out left, climb short .10b
dihedral (the one with the bushes growing out of the crack).
-p3)- Money pitch. Steep handcrack to the bolted anchor of
The final money pitch was actually quite fun but so dirty that it took away from the enjoyment. It looks like no one has been on this route in 20 years.
From: Oakland CA
Aug 10, 2009
This route gets done all the time but does pick up some grunge. 1 star though? This thing is almost as good as hospital in my opinion.
And I got to ask... 3 pitches? Is that a joke?
From: Sebastopol, CA
Jul 18, 2010
This is a diamond in the rough. An excellent 2nd pitch. We did the grungy first pitch, and I can't recommend it. Start up HC and traverse to the ledge below the Gomoke corner. This could get me shot, but I really think it should have a bolted anchor there. We used a blue alien and sketchy #3 camalot for the anchor, backed up with a nut behind a block.
Technical and fun fingers in corner, then stemming and chimneying up a hand crack. We actually enjoyed this pitch as much as HC, maybe more!
From: Vacaville Ca.
Jul 25, 2010
3 pitches? Grungy? Dangerous? Are you kidding?
The first pitch is a pile and hard to protect. The better option is to climb the first pitch of Anesthesia (via good but hard to spot bolts), which is a pleasant 5.8 face with solid clean holds. From the anchor traverse left into the Gamoke keeping a careful eye for potential rope drag. Place high up in the dihedral, pull the crux and off you go. Done it a hundred times like this and no rope drag.
There is a little grass in the corner at the start, I wouldn't classify that as mungy...ever!
Definitely a high quality "sleeper" route of which the leap is so famous for.
|By Colonel Mustard|
From: Reno, NV
Aug 21, 2011
I think Mark has been whipped enough already, but I'd definitely only do this in two pitches.
Less aesthetic than Hospital Corner, sure, The Gamoke is still just as good and is certainly more burly. I found a fuller arsenal of technique is required, from thin fingers to overhanging hands, liebacks, and stemming.
If you haven't been on either, I'd do Hospital Corner and then rap to the start of The Gamoke and do the 2nd pitch since the approach pitch (a humdrum lead) is essentially the same for both.
|By Evan Riley|
From: San Francisco, CA
May 25, 2013
Do this in 2 pitches with a 70m. The first pitch is actually quite nice. Traverse over to the start of the money pitch before you build an anchor. A #2 and #4 protect the traverse well for your follower, you'll want a red C4 for your anchor (bring 3 if you want 2 for the money pitch but this isn't required). After you climb Gamaoke, you can take turns top roping the second pitch on Hospital before you rap for some full value climbing. I think Gamoke may be better than Hospital as it is more varied and has a little more spice.