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 ADVANCED
Sweet Pain Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A-Cute Pain T 
Gambler, The S 
Glitter Gulch S 
Lee Press On S 
Pain in the Neck S 
Sister of Pain S 
Slave to the Grind S 
Sour Pain S 
Sweet Pain S 

The Gambler 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Richard and Lisa Harrison, Michelle Locatelli, October 2005
Page Views: 2,596
Submitted By: Danny Meyers on Nov 28, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (66)
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Joe Simon

Description 

"Bolted by Richard Harrison, Lisa Harrison, & Michelle Locatelli, The Gambler is a memorium to John Rosholt, a.k.a. The Gambler. This route gets better with each ascent. F.A. by Richard ,Lisa & Michelle early Oct., 2005"


Location 

This is the newest route on the wall and lies between Sweet Pain and Glitter Gulch.


Protection 

Bolts (6) and chain anchors.



Photos of The Gambler Slideshow Add Photo
Good heel rest right after clipping the 4th bolt.
BETA PHOTO: Good heel rest right after clipping the 4th bolt.
gambler
gambler
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 4, 2014
By Pete Bresciani
Dec 30, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This is a great route and a testament to the Richard's (and Lisa's!) eye for spotting lines! I'm not sure why it's listed as 5.11c here but a consensus grade I hear around town is 10d (for taller people) and 11a (for shorter types). I say this not to downgrade the route but to encourage everyone to try it since it's a fun climb with giant jugs the whole way.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 4, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Despite the grade, it'd be better to warm up on Glitter Gulch or something else to the right- the route is quite steep and the flash pump comes at you fast if this is the first route of the day.

Also, it being a new route- be careful toward the top- word has it that more than one rock has come off of it recently...

By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 9, 2007
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I was there on the day they finished the route up and redpointed it. When I gave it a try I took a nice little winger when a "key foothold" broke off. I might add that despite the rock breaking, my fall was clean and all the bolts were well placed and in places where you would want them.

I would say that the rock quality is not quite as good as routes around it. That being said, it is still a fun route that is worth doing and may improve with age as loose stuff is cleaned off.

By Michael Kimm
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 18, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

The wet winter proved to be too much for all the holds on The Gambler; the route has a new crux, and is probably 11b now if you're short. The climbing is far less pleasent now too... a shame...

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 22, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Michael- can't say I noticed any broken holds, or a new crux- it's been awhile since I've been on the route, though. It was still loads of fun and pretty mellow- well worth doing. My partner also had no trouble at 5'4".

The first bolt on the route has been replaced.

By Zach.Moore
From: Minneapolis, MN
May 26, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This route is awesome. In fact, every route to the right and left of it is also great.

Thanks bolters :)

By Nick Barczak
Oct 18, 2010

Extremely Fun route. 5.10d, in my opinion, given the straightforward movement and large holds. It is possible to gain a no-hands rest by straddling the "prow" next to the 3rd bolt.

By Maeve Devlin
May 22, 2012

My friend climbed The Gambler earlier today, and he said that the second bolt hanger was spinning, the bolt itself was wiggling, and it moved when he pulled on the quickdraw to test it.
Just be safe when you climb it. Probably not the best route to climb if 11- is pushing it for you.

By Johnny Ink
From: Portland
Nov 19, 2012

climbed this route yesterday. awesome route! i didn't notice spinning bolts. i agree with the 10d rating. i suggest climbing to the jug above the crux bolt before making the clip. it'll make life a lot easier.

By Likeasummerthursday
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Aug 4, 2014

Climbed yesterday. Spinner 2nd bolt. Great route.