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The Future of Climbing...
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By Wannabe
May 30, 2013

Interesting to me that nobody is thinking about the future of "style" in climbing. Have the light and fast ideas been taken to their endpoints?

In the near future we'll see more bold enchainments or traverses on big and bad objectives from climbers in peak condition climbing in a bold and totally committed style.

Ultra marathoners will bring their ridiculous genetics and willingness to suffer to the mountains and give us a new picture of what is possible as they gain technical ability.

As the mainstream of mainstream climbing gets broader and more "democratic" the edges will get even more radical with new grades being broken into in sport, trad and free soloing. Alex Honnold has shown us the way.

And oh yeah, almost forgot, a new but obscure sufferfest will emerge in the northeast/mid-atlantic begun by a group of masochists who came up with the idea on Mountainproject.


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By Buff Johnson
May 30, 2013
smiley face

bolt gun -- but now it will be an app


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By Tom-onator
From This Galaxy
May 30, 2013
Tom-onator

This problem is global as the following information explains:

savingenergy.wordpress.com/2006/12/18/saving-energy-one-alum>>>

In the near future, Ueli Steck's grandson will make an ascent of an unnamed peak on a distant frozen planet while searching for water sources for future generations. Wearing the new "ice-gecko" Teva's!
Sans O2.


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By Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
May 30, 2013
OTL

I foresee going climbing, then drinking beer around a campfire.


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By Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
May 30, 2013
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of Twist of Fate, Oak Creek Canyon. <br /> <br />photo: Blake McCord

offset hexes


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By Davis Stevenson
From Flagstaff, Arizona
May 30, 2013
Following up a new route out in the Mojave Desert.  Info coming soon maybe?  Fun 5.10 hands and fingers.

Matt N wrote:
I foresee going climbing, then drinking beer around a campfire.


+1

Also, gear made of carbon nanotubes!


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By Buff Johnson
May 30, 2013
smiley face

Tom-o Erectus wrote:
In the near future, Euli Steck's grandson will make an ascent of an unnamed peak on a distant frozen planet while searching for water sources for future generations. Wearing the new "ice-gecko" Teva's! Sans O2.



But getting his ass kicked by several hundred sherpa aliens


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By Allen Corneau
From Houston, TX
May 30, 2013

Darren Mabe wrote:
offset hexes



That gave me a good chuckle.


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
May 31, 2013
Day Lily.

BuffJohnson said: But getting his ass kicked by several hundred sherpa aliens

That's great!

I could see places like the Gunks limiting the number of climbers. It'll be a lottery, just as Elk hunting is here in PA: you give money, they draw if you're picked you climb, if you're not well...give them more money and better "luck" next time.

I wonder if there's a way to streamline the Big Bro placements? They're not terrible to place but I see potential in making it even easier. By placement I mean design to allow EVEN easier placement. Ill bet there's some engineers out there who could come up with something.


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By MHLeitch
May 31, 2013

Infinity cams, one size fits literally anything.


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By Matt R
From Downingtown, PA
May 31, 2013

The Stoned Master wrote:
There's no way when the "clean" climbing "revolution" came about that they could have known that Ray Jardine would rock the climbing world with his (fucking amazing!) Invention; or at least his version. So what don't we see coming? What's your prediction of the future of climbing? Predictions/direction for protection, culure/society, big wall specific gear (portaledges, etc), clothing, ropes, harnesses, biners, aid gear, guidebooks, etc, etc. Are there gaps that can be filled? I think our ropes and pro are pretty badass and safe already. Is there really room for "improvement"? Are they safe, reliable enough already? What about guidebooks? You think there will be some new standard that we just haven't done/seen yet? Like the layouts or topos, etc. I'm making "small talk". Curious what the future of our love will be like, ESPECIALLY with so many new comers and gyms. Will High Schools soon have bouldering teams? Colleges? Do some already? I could see bouldering comps becoming a high school national sport one day. Its possible. What do we have now that you think will be looked at as outdated and "old school"? There's no right or wrong here. Silly or serious, all opinions/predictions are welcome. Thanks all!


I'm in high school right now and I'm the only that one that rock climbs..even if it's just in a gym. I talk about it to my friends a lot, and they seem interested, but we can't do anything to start a club or team. You'd have to an administrator be there, as well, or someone to be a coach, and they probably don't think it'd be worth it. It's a shame.


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By SendaGorilla
From Boulder
May 31, 2013

Materials!
They've changed practically everything we take for granted now... Who's to say we won't see the same types of evolution in climbing in the near future?
What will be considered "Old-School"?? -- Aluminum, Nylon, Dyneema, Gore-Tex, "sticky rubber???". . . Magnesium Carbonate??? Haha


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By robrobrobrob
May 31, 2013

Matt R wrote:
I'm in high school right now and I'm the only that one that rock climbs..even if it's just in a gym. I talk about it to my friends a lot, and they seem interested, but we can't do anything to start a club or team. You'd have to an administrator be there, as well, or someone to be a coach, and they probably don't think it'd be worth it. It's a shame.



Man.. I live just outside of Vail Colorado.. and I'm begging kids to help start a climbing team at our school. There is a league in our area, but our High School just doesn't have any kids with interest. I figure if I keep promoting the idea we'll eventually have a small presence, keep up the pressure, ask teachers if they've climbed, bug them and your friends until you make it happen.


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By Buff Johnson
May 31, 2013
smiley face

tri cams


they'll still work everywhere


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By Kirk Miller
From Golden, CO
May 31, 2013
Bugaboos, 1978 <br />Photo by Ken Trout

Enough with these rosy, la de da, predictions:
Global warming really heats up....
Due largely to a radical right-wing coalition green-party coming into power, all access to the outdoors beyond paved areas is restricted, climbing is banned; climbers become outlaws. Individuals caught attempting to climb are placed into re-education camps where their forced labor is used to create parking lots and golf course club communities for the very wealthy.
Authorities actively and aggressively attempt to erase all evidence of climbing, both in the history books and in the field.

Meanwhile on the Mars colony climbing continues to thrive with the first pressure suit free, unsupported ascent of Olympus Mons.


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
May 31, 2013
Day Lily.

Kirk miller said: Enough with these rosy, la de da, predictions: Global warming really heats up.... Due largely to a radical right-wing coalition green-party coming into power, all access to the outdoors beyond paved areas is restricted, climbing is banned; climbers become outlaws. Individuals caught attempting to climb are placed into re-education camps where their forced labor is used to create parking lots and golf course club communities for the very wealthy. Authorities actively and aggressively attempt to erase all evidence of climbing, both in the history books and in the field.

Meanwhile on the Mars colony climbing continues to thrive with the first pressure suit free, unsupported ascent of Olympus Mons.


Its as if you plucked the thought right out of mind...

Guides and permits required for Olympus Mons? Stocked camps or will we have already genetically altered ourselves (kind of scary but soon you'll be able to choose your childs eye color, skin color and hair color, etc) to not need nearly as much food and water as we do now? Does Mars have wind? If so I wonder what that would be like and I wonder if the winds intensify the higher you go into Mars atmosphere? I just realized I don't know much of anything about Mars. As if a down suit isn't ackward enough, especially with multiple layers on already.

Ill bet there's some dude already figuring out how to make money, gain power and /or fame for something like this.

Would Olympus Mons be the ultimate first ascent in our solar system? If not what and where is it?


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By Rob Davis
From Brooklyn, NY
May 31, 2013

The Stoned Master wrote:
Would Olympus Mons be the ultimate first ascent in our solar system? If not what and where is it?


it's the tallest mountain in our solar system, but I don't know about weather patterns.


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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
May 31, 2013
Cleaning up in Jenny Lake.

Sport climbing doubles, trad climbing halves, what's mountaineering?


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By Jon O'Brien
From Nevada
May 31, 2013

tr solo device could be a robot that flies near you and catches you if you fall. program to turn "beta mode" on or off.


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By bruno-cx
May 31, 2013
shirtless wonder

Kner Hit the nail on the nail on the head when he mentioned the number
of boudlering only gyms will grow...

The climbing "culture" has changed a lot over the last 20 years it is more conducive to bouldering than other types of climbing. Go to any gym and look around at what the kids are doing, it will be mostly bouldering and hanging out with their friends. Not many be climbing routes. Other actions sports have similar cultural shift happening.

Wall design is also changing along with it.
leadwall.com/

I love to see some walls in my town that look like Crimpers or Focus. The fake stone texture and cramped inside corners are just not as fun to climb on as walls like the two above.


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By Travis Dustin
From Hollis, NH
Jun 1, 2013
NH

Unfortunately I can see busy crags being run similar to a ski resort. Limiting number of climbers, someone checking your gear and knowledge, chairlifts to the base of the cliffs and $10 beers and $10 hamburgers at the lodge


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By Greg G
From SLC, UT
Jun 1, 2013
The route in it's entirety.

if climbing ever gets to these extremes i'll quit.


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By willeslinger
From Golden, Colorado
Jun 1, 2013
I was pretty bummed when they didn't greenlight my "Bourne Identity" style reboot of The Eiger Sanction. This was from the rough draft's first act.

I think a lot of the gear we use hasn't seen much more than small cosmetic improvements in the last decade. Lighter, smoother, more breathable, but fundamentally the same.


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By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
Jun 1, 2013
Stabby

Captain Kirk will free solo the Nose because that is a common way to spend a vacation in 300 years.


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By dano-colorado
Jun 2, 2013

Some of the high school students who climb today will become engineers and develop equipment that you've probably not thought about. Our children and their children are our the future leaders; even in Rock Climbing.
Many climbers will search the world for new climbs, don't think they have all been discovered.
Look at the changes in surfing. The US coast gets crowded and those committed to surfing went exploring and found waves that no one thought possible to surf. The equipment changes over the history of surfing are tremendous, even the changes in materials and shapes are way ahead of those five years ago.
Skis, backcountry equipment, packs, bikes, tennis rackets, track equipment, running shoes, headlamps, sailboats, clothing .......... all continue to change. Never stop dreaming what we can do tomorrow.


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