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Paria Point
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Futura, The 
Sunlight Buttress T 
Super Senior 

The Futura 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b A3

   
Type:  Aid, 11 pitches, 1200', Grade V
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b A3 [details]
FA: Troy Anderson, Todd Stevens, Nate Brown 3-25 to 3-27 1999
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,543
Submitted By: Nate Brown on Jul 10, 2009

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Description 

Another obscure aid climb. Good aid climbing in an awesome place. Wild free climbing at the top of the buttress. Look for a time capsul chained to anchors of pitch 5 or 6. This route was really Todd and Troy's route, they had the first two or three fixed and I was lucky enough to tag along. We had a bunch of fun. Beast of Burden was named for us calling Todd "Keith Richards" whilst on route. We did the route with two bivis and I will never forget the shadows the morning light casts on the New Harmony valley below. This is the sandstone Patagonia...


Location 

two crack systems right of Wind Sand Stars. Thin features, pitch 3 goes on the right side of a big roof.


Protection 

I don't remember... Use what you would use for any zion nailing route... Oh, yeah, bring a bolt kit, we were broke and left a lot of unfilled holes for lead holes. Please add bolts to ladders if you feel inclined. All anchors were 1/2 by 3 1/2 inch bolts and should be good for years to come.



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By Nate Brown
From: Wilson, Wy
Mar 10, 2010

Still unrepeated???