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The North End
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The Function 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 66'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mark Van Horn
Page Views: 902
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Sep 25, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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BETA PHOTO: Pano shot showing the route (with rope hanging on ...

Description 

Called "one of the best limestone routes in Colorado" in the Shelf Road Rock book, this superb route ascends sweet rock making for a long, quality climb. Thin, sequency moves past the first two bolts (crux) leads to nice crack moves to a strenuous bulge past the fourth and fifth (homemade hanger) bolt. Six more bolts protect the great face climbing through some fantastic pockets to the anchors.

Location 

This route starts on the clean, black face about 30 feet left of Lifus's Farm Tools in light-colored rock down low.

Protection 

11 bolts to cold shuts with no chains for the anchor.


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By Allison Fritz
From: Los Alamos, New Mexico
Sep 25, 2007

The start was very tough for me. After the second bolt, the climb was enjoyable. There was a second mini-crux around the bulge, 4th bolt but found a small pocket out left to help me move up. Nice sharp route.
By slim
Administrator
Apr 9, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

3rd bolt should be replaced. The exposed portion of the stud isn't long enough, and instead of having the recommended 3 threads exposed, the stud is actually recessed into the nut.