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Routes in The Prudential
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Blue Sky and Rhino Horns S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bright Eyes S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Cranky Pants S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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El Funko S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Finland S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Full Premium, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Half Premium, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Hard Drive S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Horned Behavior S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Losing Your Life and Living Through It T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Machine Head S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Measured Doses S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Midget Tricks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mission Accomplished S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Nice Land S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Practical Magic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Practice, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Prudential Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Prudential Crack's Finish (unfinished) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 PG13 |
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Prudential Off-Width (LYLALTI start) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Short and sharp S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Soft Job S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Soft Machine S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Stoned Temple Pilot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Swedish Girls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Tumbling Dice S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Ugly Crack (aka, sandbag crack) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wiggler Wants It T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Tom Armstrong |
| Page Views: | 2,493 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | Jay Knower on Oct 21, 2015 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
(Note: The route known as "The Premium" has been divided into two route submissions: The Half Premium and The Full Premium. The Half Premium ends at anchors on the midway ledge, and the Full Premium continues past those anchors to the top of the cliff.)
The Full Premium follows a towering inside corner up the center of the Prudential. Start with technical and thin stemming moves up a clean gray dihedral. These moves lead to rounded jugs and eventually the midway ledge. The Half Premium ends here.
Above the ledge, climb the orange dihedral by using powerful and technical moves. Once you top out the dihedral, continue up 20 more feet of slightly easier rock to the top of the cliff.
The Full Premium is one of the mega-lines of Rumney and should be in the same conversation as Predator, Beat Junkie, Urban, and Giant Man as one of the best pitches on the hillside. The upper dihedral is often wet; therefore, a tick of the Full Premium is an elusive one. Many who attest to having climbed "The Premium" have only done the first half.
The Full Premium follows a towering inside corner up the center of the Prudential. Start with technical and thin stemming moves up a clean gray dihedral. These moves lead to rounded jugs and eventually the midway ledge. The Half Premium ends here.
Above the ledge, climb the orange dihedral by using powerful and technical moves. Once you top out the dihedral, continue up 20 more feet of slightly easier rock to the top of the cliff.
The Full Premium is one of the mega-lines of Rumney and should be in the same conversation as Predator, Beat Junkie, Urban, and Giant Man as one of the best pitches on the hillside. The upper dihedral is often wet; therefore, a tick of the Full Premium is an elusive one. Many who attest to having climbed "The Premium" have only done the first half.
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