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 ADVANCED
The Wading Pool
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Annie's Arete S 
Front Nine, The T 
Guillotine T 
Victimless Crime S 
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The Front Nine 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ?
Season: Every
Page Views: 1,394
Submitted By: Bryan Gilmore on May 23, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: The Front Nine goes right up the great wide crack....

Description 

This is one of the only real crack climbs at the Pool Wall. And, it's pretty darn good. Climbs up the great wide crack just right of the Ginsu Arete (Look Sharp & Be Sharp). When you get to the wide bit there is actually a nice finger crack right next to it, so no wide gear is necessary. It ends at chains on the left wall.

Location 

This is just right of Look Sharp & Be Sharp, at the right side of the Bay of Pigs.

Protection 

An assortment of finger- and hands-sized gear.


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By Bradley Potter
From: Durango, Colorado
Jun 4, 2012

This pitch was great! This is not a hands/ fist route more like offwidth and fingers. I would suggest either bringing a couple of #4 Camalots for the offwith section or couple of 0.5 and 0.75 Camalots for the finger section.
By chosspector
From: San Juans, CO
Oct 17, 2012

This can be done with a single rack from #0.3 to #3 Camalot. Two yellow Alien-size pieces are nice down low, and an extra 0.75 is nice, since you use one in the first crack right off the belay.
By Andrew Krueger
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Nov 10, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Good route - just did this yesterday. I believe it was my first route in Colorado, actually. I concur that no wide gear is needed. In fact, the route can be positively sewn up with nothing more than a set of nuts and the equivalent of doubles in BD #0.3 - 0.5 Camalots. Possibly a 3rd 0.5 if you really, really want to sew it up.

I knew it was a good route, because I noticed blood coming out my right ankle as I lowered.
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