An isolated, 200-foot wall on the back way to Turtlehead Peak, hiding in plain sight from the Kraft parking lot. The climbing is incredibly varied: steep varnish crimping, overhanging jugfests, technical slabs, even a couple crack pitches. These are all brand new routes, so care should be taken for now; the wall is still shedding a fair amount of rock. Helmets are probably a good idea. Gets afternoon shade, more of it in the winter.
The approach is not as complicated as it seems. Take the trail of the back of the Kraft parking toward Alternative Crag and the Ash Spring Boulders. At Ash Spring, cross the wash and take the trail to the east (right) of the wash. When this trail gets very close (a few feet) from the wash proper, cross the wash again and begin scrambling straight west, aiming for a 35-foot high huecoed blob of sandstone. Take the eastern path around this, onto a rib of stone, until you can cut up one more level on the left through a fifteen foot break, arriving under a large freestanding boulder. Continue up under this boulder along the slabs until you arrive at the base of the wall. 25-35 minutes.
19 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in The Fringe
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Fringe:
Outlier 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Lunatic 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Featured Route For The Fringe
Lunatic 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c NV
: Red Rock
: ... : The Fringe
Start in the bowl 40 feet up under the impressive overhanging wall. Climb through four bolts of amazing, Red River Gorge-style varnish pockets to a shallow body-sized hueco. A stretch and some delicate moves up and right gain the flake on the arete, and six more bolts of sustained, steep jugs finally brings you to the anchor. Pumpy. Once it's fully cleaned up, it will be every inch its four stars....[more] Browse More Classics in NV
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Belaying at the top of the 5.5. approach pitch
BETA PHOTO: The Fringe Approach
Pete toproping Cowboy Curse while Jen leads Hippie...
Parties at the anchors of the approach pitches.
BETA PHOTO: The Fringe from the Kraft parking lot. Follow the ...
|By Michael Kimm|
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 17, 2012
I finally buckled under the pressure; enough people kept pestering me, so I figured I'd put em all up there. Remember, I haven't finished cleaning them yet. There will be some chossy rock. Some footholds will no doubt break. But it's a cool place, and the people I've taken up there have loved it. Go and enjoy!
From: Las Vegas, nv
May 31, 2012
Alternate approach: head up the road west from the parking area, turn north past the building foundation. Cross the wash completely and turn west again. You should be above the wash. Take this trail until it ends at the base of north side of canyon mouth. Turn south and then head up the ramp to the base of the climb. Both ways get you there but staying above the wash is a little faster/easier.
|By Sam T.|
From: Denver, CO
Jun 7, 2012
Great area with some awesome routes! Definitely a little flakey still and a little easy for the grading (felt Hippy Vest in particular could be 5.8/5.7 compared to Colorado climbing) but COOL features. If it weren't 100 degrees out with no humidity and a smattering of cactus, I'd say I was in the Red standing under Lunatic. That is a sweet route. Good job Michael and thanks for sharing your projects with the rest of us!
From: Las Vegas, nv
Jun 28, 2012
We picked up something that got left at the base of the routes. Send me a message and we'll get it back to you.
Jun 30, 2012
Cowboy Bebop...I love it & love the anime. :)
The approach really is "hidden in plain sight." From a general standpoint, think of the wall as being overall northwest from the Kraft parking lot. We found Eric-D's directions useful and easy. Pass the building foundation and hit the trail to the west. Take the trail until mouth of canyon. From here, you should see the wall clearly (it honestly stuck out like a sore thumb when it caught my eye when we were wayyy off-route to the east of the approach - look for the white washed-out rectangle/square wall and huecoed pockets.) Cross the wash and scramble to the ramp.
We thought Broad Border (5.7) was somewhat tricky to figure out exactly where to link with the route to the left, Behavior Issues. I ended up traversing to Behavior Issues quite weirdly. Just make sure you study the wall and bolts before you start.
Overall neat area and will be back next week!
Oct 22, 2012
Nice crag! Thank you, Michael Kimm and Kentucky Pete for developing the area. The cairn and chalk arrow on the scramble were helpful, especially for our descent at dusk. Glad we ran into you guys yesterday :)
Dec 7, 2012
So, you can see The Fringe from the parking lot, it's a pretty obvious feature. Go to the end of the parking lot and hang a right on a narrow trail immediately as you hit the gravel road. Then take a left on a well traveled, wide trail. Stay on this trail (it heads directly towards the crag, bear right at any forks) until you reach the wash. Cross the wash and head up the ramp that leads up to the wall. Fun area, the only loose rock we found was on the pillar by Hippie Vest (don't touch that thing if you can help it... SCARY!).
|By Thomas Beck|
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Apr 3, 2013
Did a recon hike and Saturday hiked along the upper trail; the approach up the slick-rock slabs was not bad.
Note the Fringe was in the sun till about 4PM on march 30th
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 20, 2013
A fine crag with some excellent and ridiculously long routes. Take your 60m unless you want to get on Cowboy Bebop, then bring the 70m line. Well worth the hike- lots of options for everyone.
Most of the cliff was in the shade by 2p, with the shelf at the base and a bit of the cliff keeping warm until about 4.
|By Xavier Wasiak|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 7, 2013
Cool crag Mike!!! if you make it out Wednesday, I"m buying you at least two beers!
|By Stephane Fitch|
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Nov 5, 2013
This is a super alternative for sport-climbers looking for a break from the crowd at Black Corridor. The longish approach should mean it'll stay quiet, I think. Thank you, Michael Kimm and Kentucky Pete for setting this area up. Lunatic was a highlight of my week at Red Rock. I gather there are plans to bolt more routes here, too.