The Fright of the Phoenix
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At the far eastern end of the Rad Cliff is a dark buttress featuring knobby varnished rock. Start on an obvious ledge that is easily reached by a variety of class 4 or easy 5th class options. Climb on knobby rock with all natural pro for a long pitch. There are many options for the exact route, but they all seem to be of reasonably the same difficulty. In general it seems that farther to the left the rock is more solid but the holds are a little smaller. From the belay, you can climb down and right (class 4) to the catwalk leading to the Dementor rappel, or follow easy rock up to the top of the buttress and scramble down and left.
The "fright" in the route name refers to a terrifying section of precariously balanced, darkly varnished plates encountered on the first ascent. Subsequent disassembly of the threatening obstacle has left a fairly sound and aesthetic climb.
Lots of small wired stoppers and slings, and some small to medium cams
By marc rosenthal
From: San Antonio, TX
Feb 7, 2006
When we climbed it, the teetering stack of stones was still there. Our route went out to the left on small gear.
Dec 3, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b