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The Rad Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Azkaban Jam T 
Basilisk Fang T 
Cadillac Crack T 
Chamber of Secrets, The T 
Dark Arts T 
Dementor, The T 
Diagon Alley T 
Falling Rein T 
Fright of the Phoenix, The T 
Get Rad T 
Moaning Myrtle T 
Rita Skeeter T 

The Fright of the Phoenix 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 220'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Larry DeAngelo & Jason Fico
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,487
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Feb 2, 2003

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


At the far eastern end of the Rad Cliff is a dark buttress featuring knobby varnished rock. Start on an obvious ledge that is easily reached by a variety of class 4 or easy 5th class options. Climb on knobby rock with all natural pro for a long pitch. There are many options for the exact route, but they all seem to be of reasonably the same difficulty. In general it seems that farther to the left the rock is more solid but the holds are a little smaller. From the belay, you can climb down and right (class 4) to the catwalk leading to the Dementor rappel, or follow easy rock up to the top of the buttress and scramble down and left.

The "fright" in the route name refers to a terrifying section of precariously balanced, darkly varnished plates encountered on the first ascent. Subsequent disassembly of the threatening obstacle has left a fairly sound and aesthetic climb.


Lots of small wired stoppers and slings, and some small to medium cams

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By marc rosenthal
From: Canyon Lake, TX
Feb 7, 2006

When we climbed it, the teetering stack of stones was still there. Our route went out to the left on small gear.
By Canon
Dec 3, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

By Ben Townsend
Nov 29, 2014

Elegant, airy climb. The looseness seems to have abated. The descent is a bit involved: go up, scramble left and down to a rap down a slab, then traverse back right through a tunnel and scramble down to another rap.
By DavidJohnson333
From: AZ
Feb 18, 2015

Cool route! Climbed up the right side of the face. The pro is a little small and somewhat questionable in places / run out, but the climbing is really easy for 5.7 and the rock seemed OK. We traversed to the right across the top of Azkaban jam and rapped down The Dementor for a smooth exit.

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