The Fright of the Phoenix  5.7

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 220 feet Consensus:  5.7 [details] FA:  Larry DeAngelo & Jason Fico New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Larry DeAngelo on Feb 2, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

At the far eastern end of the Rad Cliff is a dark buttress featuring knobby varnished rock. Start on an obvious ledge that is easily reached by a variety of class 4 or easy 5th class options. Climb on knobby rock with all natural pro for a long pitch. There are many options for the exact route, but they all seem to be of reasonably the same difficulty. In general it seems that farther to the left the rock is more solid but the holds are a little smaller. From the belay, you can climb down and right (class 4) to the catwalk leading to the Dementor rappel, or follow easy rock up to the top of the buttress and scramble down and left.

The "fright" in the route name refers to a terrifying section of precariously balanced, darkly varnished plates encountered on the first ascent. Subsequent disassembly of the threatening obstacle has left a fairly sound and aesthetic climb.

Protection 

Lots of small wired stoppers and slings, and some small to medium cams