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Zappa Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aid Line (Chockstone Roulette?) T 
Beside the Pillar T 
Big Hands Roof T 
Blood Pulse T 
Calcite Fingers T 
Curve, The T 
Dirty Red Cam Corner T 
Far Right Corner T 
Flake (unknown there was no plaque) T 
Fork It (HVS) T 
Frank Zappa Appreciation Society (aka Cobra Roof), The T 
Green Cam Lie Back T 
Hands to OW T 
Hands to OW Chimney (unknown due to no plaque) T 
Hanging to the Right (unknown due to no plaque) T 
Leaning Corner (aka Moderation) T 
Left Leaner T 
Mr. Sheeley T 
My Big 3 Inch (no plaque at bottom) T 
One Bolt Wonder (unknown not a plaque) T 
OW Corner T 
Point 5 roof T 
Short Corner T 
Short Dihedral T 
Short, Some Hands T 
Slightly Overhanging Wide Corner (unknown no plaque) T 
Zig-Zag T 

The Frank Zappa Appreciation Society (aka Cobra Roof) 

YDS: 5.13+ French: 8b Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- British: E7 7a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13+ French: 8b Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- British: E7 7a [details]
FA: first free ascent
Season: any
Page Views: 1,448
Submitted By: rob pizem on Apr 15, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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At the upper crux of Frank Zappa Appreciation Soci...

Description 

There are two cruxes after the initial 5.11- start. The first crux is an undercling right on tips to tips lieback. The second crux is an undercling campus out roof into ring locks to anchor.


Location 

It is in the middle of the Zappa Wall out the roof to the right of Fork It. The new trail takes you right to the climb.


Protection 

1 bolt from original ascent and anchors, gear from 0.2-1 inch cams plus 1 draw. I used a number 1, 0.3, 0.5, and a draw on the send.



Comments on The Frank Zappa Appreciation Society (aka Cobra Roof) Add Comment
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By rob pizem
Apr 15, 2012

Thanks to whomever aided this line years ago. Also, when passing the bolt at the first crux, be sure to have an excellent belay. A fall could break your ankles/legs on the slab/ledge below.

I still have a jammed blue TCU after the first crux. If you get it out, please let me know. I would love to get it back. I didn't have time to work at it on my last day.

Lastly, this was not my style of crack. If you are strong boulderer and know how to jam. I wouldn't doubt that you will find it easier than I did. That being said, I feel strongly that the route is mid- to upper-13 which is why the + rating. I am sure that other ascents will help adjust the rating over time.

By slim
Administrator
Apr 15, 2012

Nice work, piz, figured you would probably get the FFA on this when you moved to the area.

By rob pizem
Apr 16, 2012

Thanks, slim, it has ruined my two pointer fingers, but I think it was worth freeing this pitch. It was way too fun to climb on!

By slim
Administrator
Apr 16, 2012

Ah, pointer fingers, who needs em. Too big for the blue Alien cracks anyway.