Start by steming in the corner then commit to the face staying left of the bolts and finish up to the anchors. Still a little dirty so be careful.
The almond colored hangers left of Three Kings.
Sewn up with 6 bolts, chain anchor.
BETA PHOTO: The Fourth Wise Man (5.7), Frustration Creek
Building the anchor
From: Layton, UT
Oct 9, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fun route with fun moves. I only gave it one star because it is still quite dirty, but with some more traffic it will clean up and be a two or three star route.
For some fun, the route can also be done without using the left hand side of the corner at all, this bumps the rating to probably 5.9, but it makes the route feel much more sustained and once clean, would definately be three stars.
Oct 17, 2012
Thanks for the input Ken! I have cleaned it alot but it is still kinda dirty, the bottom holds have changed/broke. a couple more cleaning runs and it should be good.
|By C Miller|
Mar 19, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Very well protected climbing up a left-trending feature to a definite crux at the last bolt. Taller climbers will have a much easier time reaching the good holds and consequently find it a tad easier.
Also, what's up with the two sets of anchors at the top?
Mar 21, 2013
Thanks for the cool topo Chris! The left anchor is one of my unfinished projects called birthday blunt.
May 6, 2013
About the rating, If you use the dihedral its 5.7 or climbing using only face holds goes about 5.9, both ways are fun!