The Forrest/Briggs Indirect ( The Mugacki Variation)
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Start at the southernmost base of the tower. P1: Follow Beak seam to crack, then pendulum right into another loose beak seam. There is a very large, very detached flake on this pitch that the leader would be wise to not drop on his belayer. P2: A rope stretcher. Travel up and right to finally meet up with the Forrest/Briggs after 185 rope stretching feet. P3-4: Follow the Forrest/Briggs to the summit. P3 climbs the arete. P4 goes straight to the summit.
Southern end of the Citadel. The beak seam that you start on is pretty obvious.
5-#1 beaks, 5-#2 beaks, 5-#3 beaks, 2-3 spectres, triple rack of cams including offset aliens to #2 camalots, 2-#3 camalots, and a 4 and 5 camalot. On the first two pitches, no bolts were placed on lead. Two bolts are present on the top of P1 for an anchor.
|Photos of The Forrest/Briggs Indirect ( The Mugacki Variation) Slideshow
J. Aslaksen starting P2
J. Aslaksen cleaning P3
Rapping from the top of P2
Flying the Jolly Roger at the top of P1
Sunset below Gothic
Summit of Citadel
On P1, tensioning over into next beak seam.
|Comments on The Forrest/Briggs Indirect ( The Mugacki Variation)
|By Jeremy Aslaksen|
From: Albuquerque, NM
Nov 2, 2012
This is a cool 2 pitch (no bolts) variation that skips the first 3 pitches of the original Forest-Briggs bolt ladders.
Much more aesthetic in my opinion.
Super bitchin tower and KILLER summit.
|By Joe Forrester|
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Nov 2, 2012
Dude, great summit. Persistence pays off.
From: Vail, CO
Apr 7, 2013
Nice work guys! Looks wild