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The Fornicator 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Adams and T. Anderson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,254
Submitted By: richard magill on Feb 16, 2004
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Luna Kyly on The Fornicator, 11c.
Private Property issues MORE INFO >>>


This is between "Real Men of Genius" and "The Adultress" is "The Fornicator".

It is an excellent route with some 10d/11a slabbing that leads to a crux around the 6th bolt. The crux involves some insecure sidepulling and footwork to work through an overhanging apex. This is difficult to onsight but not so bad if you know where you are going.

After the crux, there is a no hands rest and then the climbing stays overhanging on big, juggy huecoes (10+).

The route doesn't quite pack the multiple crux punch of "Real Men of Genius", but it is pretty sweet.


A dozen bolts to anchors.

Photos of The Fornicator Slideshow Add Photo
Luna Kyly on The Fornicator, 11c.
Luna Kyly on The Fornicator, 11c.
Luna Kyly on The Fornicator, 11c.
Luna Kyly on The Fornicator, 11c.
Comments on The Fornicator Add Comment
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By Nate Adams
Feb 19, 2004
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

From a purely objective, unbiased standpoint, this gets my nomination for Best Route in the Universe. Three stars, baby!

By Anonymous Coward
Mar 15, 2004

Wow! Spectacular line! We sure don't have routes like this in Kansas!

By Nate Adams
Mar 15, 2004
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

I noticed my prior star rating didn't get averaged with Tod and Rich.

By A concerned citizen
Mar 15, 2004

Holy cow! Amazing!

By gumbi
Mar 15, 2004

A bit crowded, but a great line. Kudos to the installers' obvious genius.

By morkel
From: Fort Collins, CO
Dec 16, 2006

A runner is nice on the third to last bolt.