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Dark West Face
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Fools Progress, The S 
Journey Home, The T 
Katchina S 
Mud Head S 

The Fools Progress 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Durf and Troy
Page Views: 2,328
Submitted By: Stevie Nacho on Jul 10, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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The beautiful slab section of the 1st pitch of The...

Description 

This is a two pitch route that starts in the gulley west of the ridge and joins The Journey Home at the beginning of its fourth pitch.

PITCH ONE: Bolts and pins up a beautiful slab to a two bolt anchor on a mini ledge/alcove.

PITCH TWO: Bolts and pins out a roof, up a thin face to and anchor on the "gangplank." This routes stays in the shade longer than The Journey Home

Location 

On the right (west) side of the ridge.

Protection 

A small rack, quickdraws, slings, one rope.


Photos of The Fools Progress Slideshow Add Photo
Swinging out from under the roof of The Fools Prog...
Swinging out from under the roof of The Fools Prog...
Durf demonstrating another fine example of a good ...
Durf demonstrating another fine example of a good ...
Wacking away on the first ascent
Wacking away on the first ascent
The thin face above the roof on the second pitch o...
The thin face above the roof on the second pitch o...
Rob C demonstrating good belay technique by flappi...
Rob C demonstrating good belay technique by flappi...

Comments on The Fools Progress Add Comment
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By cdec
From: SLC and Moab, ut
Aug 22, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Super fun. No rack required for the 2 pitches, well protected with bolts and pins. If you finish up on the last pitch of Journey bring a BD .5 and .75 and the whole route is well protected.
Recommend going to the top for and excellent 3 pitch outing.
By Shameless Shaemus
From: Cottonwood Heights, UT
Aug 22, 2015

Fun and fairly consistent climbing in the 5.9 range. Third pitch might is excellent. Take it to the top. Careful on the descent to not miss the 2nd rap station. Lots of hard work put into this route and an excellent find. Thanks!
By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Aug 23, 2015

Glad you liked this area as much as I do. I was never a fan of waiting in line for routes, therefore I like to ditch away from the crowds in areas like this. Our goal was to put up enough routes that more than one party could climb there.

As of two weeks ago, there are a few of the suspect Austria Alpin knifeblades on this route. I didn't have a hammer nor anything to replace them with. The yare in an area that is heavily protected therefore I wouldn't worry too much. When I get the chance, I am going to go up with some BD knifeblades and replace them.

tda
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