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The fourth bolted line from the left on Tarot Wall. Start just left of a low roof jutting out over the trail.
Climb into a left-facing corner (hard) and then left and into another left-facing corner (crux). Easier climbing leads up a narrow face using the arÍte on the left. At the last move I used a crack on the right.
10d seems about right by Boulder sport ratings. It took many up and downs before I figured out the move into the second corner. It's insecure, and there are several options.
7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with rings.
Acting the fool on the upper portion of the route.
|By Ron Olsen|
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 24, 2003
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
Awkward climbing; my least favorite route on Tarot Wall.
The ledge at the start is very narrow with a steep drop-off; consider anchoring the belayer to the nearby tree.
|By Michael Amato|
Aug 1, 2005
Yeah, sort of awkward and grungy down low... some nicer moves up above, though still a bit grungy up there, too.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Aug 17, 2005
I thought this was a very enjoyable climb... somewhat similar to Wheel of Fortune (two climbs to the right), though with a slightly more bouldery start.
Agree with Ron that the belay area is very narrow. If the leader fails on the first clip, leader and belayer can both tumble down to the creek. Consider anchoring for sure.
|By Brent Apgar|
From: Out of the Loop
Jul 17, 2008
Two more routes have gone in and this is now the 6th bolted line from the left as you're looking at the second tier.
From: Sheffield, SY
Jul 26, 2013
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
I think this route is OK. The low crux is tricky and a little awkward, but the rest of the climb is nice. It's a good warm-up once you know the crux beta.
|By Michael G.|
Sep 8, 2013
The new guidebook gives it 0 stars and a 10d rating, but I don't know that I agree with either. The start could be dangerous if you hit the ground, but even with that, the whole route was fun for me. Long run out to the anchors, compared to most of the canyon, combined with the odd start makes it not the best if you're having an off day, but I recommend this route.