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 ADVANCED
Tarot Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Constant Gardener (aka the Pursuit of Fappiness), The S 
Devil, The S 
Earth Angel S 
Fapanese Direct S 
Fool, The S 
Goat F***er S 
Hanged Man, The S 
Horse, The T,S 
Lust S 
Magician, The T,S 
S.I.N. T 
Tower, The S 
Wheel of Fortune S 

The Fool 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter, Christine Damiano 2001
Page Views: 1,205
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Oct 23, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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BETA PHOTO: The route. The crux is at the bottom of the photo.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The fourth bolted line from the left on Tarot Wall. Start just left of a low roof jutting out over the trail.

Climb into a left-facing corner (hard) and then left and into another left-facing corner (crux). Easier climbing leads up a narrow face using the arÍte on the left. At the last move I used a crack on the right.

10d seems about right by Boulder sport ratings. It took many up and downs before I figured out the move into the second corner. It's insecure, and there are several options.

Protection 

7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with rings.


Photos of The Fool Slideshow Add Photo
Acting the fool on the upper portion of the route.
Acting the fool on the upper portion of the route.

Comments on The Fool Add Comment
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By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 24, 2003
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Awkward climbing; my least favorite route on Tarot Wall.

The ledge at the start is very narrow with a steep drop-off; consider anchoring the belayer to the nearby tree.
By Michael Amato
Aug 1, 2005

Yeah, sort of awkward and grungy down low... some nicer moves up above, though still a bit grungy up there, too.
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 17, 2005

I thought this was a very enjoyable climb... somewhat similar to Wheel of Fortune (two climbs to the right), though with a slightly more bouldery start.

Agree with Ron that the belay area is very narrow. If the leader fails on the first clip, leader and belayer can both tumble down to the creek. Consider anchoring for sure.
By Brent Apgar
From: Out of the Loop
Jul 17, 2008

Two more routes have gone in and this is now the 6th bolted line from the left as you're looking at the second tier.
BA
By farkas.time
From: Sheffield, SY
Jul 26, 2013
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I think this route is OK. The low crux is tricky and a little awkward, but the rest of the climb is nice. It's a good warm-up once you know the crux beta.
By Robots and Dinosaurs
Sep 8, 2013

The new guidebook gives it 0 stars and a 10d rating, but I don't know that I agree with either. The start could be dangerous if you hit the ground, but even with that, the whole route was fun for me. Long run out to the anchors, compared to most of the canyon, combined with the odd start makes it not the best if you're having an off day, but I recommend this route.