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By Bosier Parsons
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Feb 9, 2005
This spire gets 3 stars for the summit alone. The quality of the South Face route, is probably 2-3 stars. This is a great option if you want to avoid crowds on the Petit. The serious rating is probably accurate, but you get good pro, and then only traverse about 15 feet to easier terrain. Bring some extra webbing for the rappel, just in case.
As I remember, the pitches are all fairly long and are as follows (though its been several years):
1) From up high in the gully, angle in from the right below some steeper rock, and into a long chimney. Face climb and chimney, then belay above a small overhang.
2) Step out right on the south face and face climb up beautiful metamorphic rock, until an obvious and large ledge appear again on your left. Pro can be a little run out, but easy climbing on great rock.
3) Climb a left-facing corner above the ledge to its top where it again joins the south face on your right. From another ledge or stance, climb up a crack in the face to a sloping ledge. The crack continues up at this sloping ledge onto steeper terrain. Place a good cam (#1 camalot ?), then traverse right 15 feet, keeping your feet on the sloping ledge. Gain easier ground on the SE corner of the spire and belay wherever seems best.
4) Climb easy corner systems up the SE corner of the spire, then move back left below the summit block, and obtain the summit by jamming a steep, 4" crack, that goes at about 5.8. This is a glory pitch, to be sure.
5) Rappel, then climb a short, moderate pitch up the north side of the nearby gendarme, across from the Foil. Has anyone ever set up a Tyrolean here?
I also remember the guide book we used seemed pretty accurate.
By Tommy Ormond
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Jul 31, 2012
|We did the direct rappel straight off the notch off the north side from the summit of the Foil. 4 200 ft rappels got us to the base of Poc Club and a short scramble to our packs at the base of South Face. AWESOME ROUTE. INCreDIBLE SUMMIT.|
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Aug 17, 2014
|The topos don't quite get the actual layout of the tower right. They fail to capture that you have a huge ledge system at the top of pitch 3 on the South side. That puts pitch 4 on the South face, whereupon you access a good-sized ledge to do the short 5.9 pitch. The belay is around the corner to the right. You have several options. You can belay at the very corner in this ridiculously small seat that has cracks in the back. This is bad for two people, so make sure the follower plays it through. Or, you can move up and right from here into a crack that is the final pitch of the Poe Club. It's rated 5.9+, which of course is more 10a. The distinction between this exit and the east face runout 5.9 is that you have a continuous crack for pro. So take your pick: ballsy runout easy or strenuous well-protected (you can aid it). We opted for the well-protected line to finish and loved it.|