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 ADVANCED
The Nuns
Select Route:
Bad Habit T 
Flying Nun, The T 
Holier Than Thou T,S 
Unforgiven, The T,S 
Where have the Wild Things Gone T 

The Flying Nun 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,492
Submitted By: Josh Janes on May 1, 2004

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BETA PHOTO: The obvious 2-pitch route on the North Nun. No one...

Description 

The Flying Nun (listed as East Face in Bjornstad's guide?) is the obvious calcite-encrusted crack line to the right of Holier Than Thou. Begin in a left-facing corner before stepping onto the face and finishing at the aforementioned route's anchors.

To summit, continue on Holier Than Thou's 2nd & 3rd pitches.

Protection 

A double set of cams to hand-size.


Photos of The Flying Nun Slideshow Add Photo
Olek leading pitch 1
Olek leading pitch 1
Pitch 1
Pitch 1
Here is a pic of the "other" 2nd pitch(l...
BETA PHOTO: Here is a pic of the "other" 2nd pitch(l...
M. Miner rappelling after we climbed the splitter ...
M. Miner rappelling after we climbed the splitter ...

Comments on The Flying Nun Add Comment
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By Steve Bond
Nov 9, 2009

Did this route 10/8/09/ "North Face Right" in the book I believe. Sharp calcite. Harder climbing starts at about 30' with mediocre gear and a potential for a fall to a ledge/corner. Sustained. Felt harder than .10a, but still .10-range. Not an easy .10 for certain. Aside from a medium and large (2, 3 Camalot) to start, we were all small gear - yellow/orange/red Metolius, 0.5 and 0.75 Camalot, and a few draws for the merge w/ Holier Than Thou. Despite this long description, I would not recommend this route unless you like long approaches for 1 or 2 star climbing. (Full disclosure: we're a bit weak these days)
By Bob Dobalina
Oct 8, 2012

I felt that the climbing on the first two pitches was solid, sustained, and "in-your-face" for the 5.10a rating.
The nature of the route is odd for Castle Valley. The majority of the route is face climbing on sharp calcite while clipping bolts!
The belay at the top of P1 is an uncomfortable hanging belay. The first few moves on P2 is the technical crux in my opinion. P3 is short with only one move of 5.10 at the top of a tight hand crack.

Bring quickdraws, a set of medium/large sized nuts, double cams from tiny to a #2 camalot, and also a #3 camalot is handy for the bottom and the top.
Rap the route. Double 60's will get you down from the top of 2nd pitch, avoiding that 1st belay.

All in all, it is a long hike for OK climbing. But it IS an official desert tower! Kind of...
By Drew Spaulding
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 19, 2013

Around 2008, We climbed the 1st pitch of The Flying Nun up to the obvious ledge below the large, right-facing, arching roof. Without any beta on the route, for the 2nd pitch, I chose to climb the obvious arching roof up and right. Challenging 5.10+ out the roof into one of the most awesome diagonalling thin hand cracks ever!(5.11a) A stunningly incredible pitch leading right to the summit of the north NUN. We saw the bolts out to the left figured that was another route... I highly suggest climbing this 2-pitch splitter crack system to the summit!!