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 ADVANCED
Grand Wall Base Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aged in Oak T 
Apron Strings T 
Arrowroot T 
Exasperator T 
Flake, The T 
Flex Capacitor T 
Ghostdancing T 
Jingus the Cat T 
Knacker Cracker T 
Merci Me S 
Peasant's Route T 
Rutabaga T 
Seasoned in the Sun T 
Turnip T 

The Flake 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,177
Submitted By: blakeherrington on Jul 30, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Just above the chimney. Apron Strings is visible o...

Description 

Follow clean cracks and features up the interface between the clean slab of the lower Grand Wall, and the major flake/ledge features on the left. This is mostly comprised of a major right-facing corner/flake system and has a prominent chimney 1/3 of the way up.

This pitch is sustained and harder than it looks, involving physical climbing of many sorts (chimney, wide crack, laybacking).


The top of the pitch puts you at the base of P2 of Apron Strings (moving left) or P1 of Cruel Shoes (moving right).


Location 

From the base of the Grand Wall, this climb is located left of the left-facing corner of The Peasants Route, and just right of the thin layback crack "Apron Strings".

Protection 

Double set of cams to 3" and a set of nuts.


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By Hans
From: North Vancouver, BC
Sep 23, 2012

Great gear and a wide variety of climbing styles here. Good rests too. Loved this route.
By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
Jul 8, 2013

Didn't really enjoy this pitch. The climbing felt quite awkward and surprisingly tricky for 10b. Managed to get up it, but I don't think I'd do it again with such a pleasant option right beside it.