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Routes in 4. The Perfect Wave Slab
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An "Unknown" to White Line Fever T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bonsai T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Bubbles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Crazy Woman Driver T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Cruise Control T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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First Wave, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Friday's Friends T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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No Bansai Here S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Perfect Wave T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Petroglyph, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Silver Surfer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Super Slab T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Take A Giant Step 5.8+PG / 5.7-5.6 PG-R T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tsunami T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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V-2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 215 ft (65 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | FRA R Hall & S Matz Aug 2014 |
| Page Views: | 924 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Robert Hall on Oct 1, 2014 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Access Issue: You may see the Peregrine Falcons closure signs for Painted Walls on the approach path to Rainbow but, so far, Rainbow has always remained open.
Details
Description
The left-most route on the Perfect Wave Slab, this climb takes the straight-up line on the white rock just to the right of the brownish rock the marks the end of the Mid-Section. See ROUTE PHOTO posted to either Take a Giant Step, or Silver Surfer.
START- Just a few feet right of where the climber's path meets the cliff.
P1 - Climb up the darker "base" slab to a 1 ft overlap (gear, overlap has a small birch tree on its far right), step over and then move diagonally right, up to a ledge with a small maple tree. Belay here ( dbl bolt belay/rap anchor) 70-80 ft 5.3- 5.4 (Pretty much the same as Take a Giant Step and Perfect Wave.)
P2 - Move back left 15-20 feet, then directly over the overlap on clean, white rock (gear, small wires or TCU's). Continue on incuts and small ledges (gear possible at flake on right) to a stance below a bolt. Climb past the bolt (crux, 5.8 G either on the right or left). 15 ft higher there is a rather unique placement for the "blue" Black Diamond wired stopper (photo). Continue past a 2nd bolt and past small ledges* (gear). Continue up the easy slab above, to the 3rd bolt where most will want to move up and right to the double bolt anchor at the top of Silver Surfer, but the FA continued straight up golden rock, stepping left (off of the "PW Slab" itself) to finish at a triple-trunked oak, sight of the once "mankyest anchor in NH". [photo in Super Slab] 180 ft 5.8 G / 5.5-5.6 PG
* These ledges were the original belay for "Take a Giant Step" and could be used as as an alternate belay.
The FA was done with only the crux bolt, the other two were added later by the FA party.
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