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The Fins

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Discovery Wall, The 
Head Wall, The 
Warm up Wall 

The Fins 


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Elevation: 7,500'
Location: 43.73145, -113.08445 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 23,360
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Jaren Watson on May 9, 2013
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Approach from the Lower Parking. Yellow Cake is th...

Description 

For more comprehensive information, purchase the excellent guide, Sweet Spots, by Jerry Painter and Matt TeNgaio.
One of the original hard men, Dave Bingham, has written Underground Idaho which also contains the latest information concerning climbing at the Fins and other local crags.

Located at the southern end of the Lost River mountain range, the Fins offer climbing unlike any other in southeast Idaho. On vertical to slightly overhung walls of immaculate limestone, most routes here feature positive edges and secure pockets. The rock is somewhat sharp, but the texture is excellent. Chances are, your tips will wear out before your forearms.
The walls at the Fins have seen significant new development as of 2012, so there are many more routes than I have descriptions for. Dave Bingham, Matt TeNgaio, and Jonathan Siegrist have been the major contributors lately. We all owe a huge thanks to these guys and the earlier developers for their hard work and vision.
Morning sun, afternoon shade. When it's too hot to climb elsewhere, excellent conditions can be found at the Fins in the afternoon and evening of even the hottest summer days.


Getting There 

South of Howe on Highway 33, turn west at a gravel pit into Eightmile Canyon. Keep right on the dirt road as it enters the canyon. If you've got a four-wheel drive vehicle, drive five miles to basically the top of the mountain and park in the established parking.
For low-clearance vehicles, you'll need to park in the lower parking (about 3.5 miles from the highway).


Climbing Season


33 Total Routes


['4 Stars',13],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',9],['5.12',13],['5.13',5],['>=5.14',3],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Fins:
Unknown   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Warm up Wall
Cicada   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Warm up Wall
Warm up 2   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   The Head Wall
EBR-1   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   The Discovery Wall : Martini Sector
Yellow Man   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Discovery Wall : Martini Sector
Warm up 1   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   The Head Wall
Water from Stone   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   The Discovery Wall : Jet A Sector
Stiff Warm UP   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   The Head Wall
White Rhino   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Head Wall
Middle Man   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   The Head Wall
Ghost in the Shell   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Head Wall
G.I. Joe Bouncy Tank   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   The Discovery Wall : Jet A Sector
Martini   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   The Discovery Wall : Martini Sector
Shaken Not Stirred   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Discovery Wall : Martini Sector
Yukon Gold   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Head Wall
Clips from the Bong   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Head Wall
Bean Fiddler   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   The Head Wall
Dinner Roll   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Discovery Wall : Martini Sector
Al's Diner   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   The Head Wall
Make it a Double    5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   The Discovery Wall : Martini Sector
Browse More Classics in The Fins

Featured Route For The Fins
Al's Diner

Al's Diner 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  ID : The Fins : The Head Wall
Easier climbing on bigger holds lead to a marginal rest, then the crux at mid height where you can get settled on the 'shocker monos' (index and pinky) or a double set of marginal crimps. Either way you have to make a BIG move to a nice pocket to clip (big for me at 5'8", -2). Find your way through a multitude of interesting holds and either escape right of the bolt line in easier, but harder to read grey rock, or use the nice pockets up the face for a little harder finish....[more]   Browse More Classics in ID

Photos of The Fins Slideshow Add Photo
Approach to the upper parking. <br />Photograph by Jonathan Siegriest, from <a href='http://jstarinorbit.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >jstarinorbit.com</a>.
BETA PHOTO: Approach to the upper parking.
Photograph by Jonat...
A view of the Fins from just above the lower parking area. Upper parking is near the top-right of the photo. <br />Photo courtesy of Jonathan Siegrist.
A view of the Fins from just above the lower parki...
Comments on The Fins Add Comment
Show which comments
By dave bingham
Jun 3, 2013

My guide "Idaho Underground" (2012) includes The Fins and a bunch of other Idaho crags.

By Jaren Watson
From: Rexburg, Idaho
Jun 5, 2013

Thank you, Dave. I've included this info in the description.

By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Aug 10, 2013

Some more approach beta can be found here.

By WAGbag
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Jul 27, 2014

On the upper parking: Clearance isn't necessarily an issue as a reasonably skilled driver in a Subaru can make it. If you have low-range use it, if you have a transmission temp warning light, pay attention to it, if you don't, plan to take a rest or three on the way up to give your tranny a rest (automatics). Watch your engine temp too, mine was fine on the first run up, but was the limiting factor on the second time up (hotter day). My vehicle is an AWD Chevy Express. I know one Jeep Cherokee had to turn back due to tranny overheating.

Rattlesnakes: There is at least one in the rocks just above the camping; watch and listen when 'getting rid of your coffee'. Running on the dirt road, a climber on a rest day came very close to one. It's a good idea to keep a bite extractor kit with you. See photo - very center...

Rattlesnake above the camping
Rattlesnake above the camping