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The Final Chapter
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.3 from 10
votes
Routes in The Pages Wall Area
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44, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Box, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cheap Date T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Corner Pump Station T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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El Camino Real T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Fat City Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Final Chapter, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Frisky Puppies T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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George's Tree T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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High Plains Drifter T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Howling at the Wind T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hurley Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hurley Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Interceptor T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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M.I.C. Exit [aka Parable of the Cave] T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Midway T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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New Music T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Osiris T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Outlander T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Perelandra T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pseudo Wallet Eater T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Right Exit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stepped On T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Toot T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wolfie and the Scientist T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, Grade II |
| FA: | Randy Farris & client, 1980s |
| Page Views: | 3,273 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Charles Vernon on Sep 24, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23
Details
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
This is an excellent finish to climbs on the right side of the Book. It is a harder, parallel version of Cheap Date, although not quite as good as that route. Pick any route that leads up to the Cave area--especially fitting would be a route such as Howling at the Wind or the headwall pitch of J-Crack. The route starts in the same place as Cheap Date, just left of the bottom of the square-cut inset that harbors the Cave Exit. The first 30 or so feet are shared with Cheap Date, linking thin, exciting, left-trending 5.9 cracks. There is a good stance where Cheap Date splits left; Final Chapter continues straight up. The first ascentionist apparently thought this was the crux, but we both felt it was the top part of the crack (good 2 or 2.5 friend, and small nuts above that to sew it up). It's possible to step right just before this section into an easy chimney with a very loose block.
The route is rated 5.11a, but I should mention that it felt harder to me than any other 5.11 I've done at Lumpy (including Howling at the Wind and Living Dead, both .11b, and Stretch Marks and Little Twin Owls' Finger Crack, .11a).
From the ledge atop this pitch, either scramble carefully off right (rope?) and join the standard descent from the Cave Exit. Or, continue to the summit, via moderate terrain or the excellent 5.10c final pitch of Outlander, about 10-15 feet left.
The route is rated 5.11a, but I should mention that it felt harder to me than any other 5.11 I've done at Lumpy (including Howling at the Wind and Living Dead, both .11b, and Stretch Marks and Little Twin Owls' Finger Crack, .11a).
From the ledge atop this pitch, either scramble carefully off right (rope?) and join the standard descent from the Cave Exit. Or, continue to the summit, via moderate terrain or the excellent 5.10c final pitch of Outlander, about 10-15 feet left.
Photos
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