The Final Chapter 5.11a/b
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| Type: | Trad, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.11b [details] |
| FA: | Randy Farris & client, 1980s |
| Submitted By: | Charles Vernon on Sep 25, 2001 |
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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation.
Alligator Rock is also closed.
www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is an excellent finish to climbs on the right side of the Book. It is a harder, parallel version of Cheap Date, although not quite as good as that route. Pick any route that leads up to the Cave area--especially fitting would be a route such as Howling at the Wind or the headwall pitch of J-Crack. The route starts in the same place as Cheap Date, just left of the bottom of the square-cut inset that harbors the Cave Exit. The first 30 or so feet are shared with Cheap Date, linking thin, exciting, left-trending 5.9 cracks. There is a good stance where Cheap Date splits left; Final Chapter continues straight up. The first ascentionist apparently thought this was the crux, but we both felt it was the top part of the crack (good 2 or 2.5 friend, and small nuts above that to sew it up). It's possible to step right just before this section into an easy chimney with a very loose block.
The route is rated 5.11a, but I should mention that it felt harder to me than any other 5.11 I've done at Lumpy (including Howling at the Wind and Living Dead, both .11b, and Stretch Marks and Little Twin Owls' Finger Crack, .11a).
From the ledge atop this pitch, either scramble carefully off right (rope?) and join the standard descent from the Cave Exit. Or, continue to the summit, via moderate terrain or the excellent 5.10c final pitch of Outlander, about 10-15 feet left.
Protection Bring a full set of RPs, HBs, or equivalent tiny stoppers. Otherwise, gear to a #2.5 Friend.
| Comments on The Final Chapter |
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By Anonymous Coward
Sep 28, 2001
| I've been told that by initially using the Cheap Date crack when starting Final Chapter that it eases the grade to 5.10d. |
By Charles Vernon
From: Florence, AZ
Sep 28, 2001
| It probably lowers the grade of that section to mid-10, rather than .10d (my partner and I both stemmed). If that's .10d, then the upper section (clearly the crux) has got to be mid-11! I'm sure we were on route, but I don't understand the guidebooks at all on this one. |
By justin dubois
From: Estes Park
Mar 22, 2002
| It is absurd and contrived to avoid the Cheap Date crack at the start of Final Chapter. There is a good rest from which you can fire in some decent RPs. The natural line moves right from there and face climbs along the side of the crack until it is possible to move back into then crack. Be warned, this thing is BURLY and THIN, I felt it to be much harder than the J-Crack headwall. Enjoy. |
By Crusty
Mar 29, 2002
| Justin, you too are BURLY and Thin! I think the stance on Cheap Date is in, continuing to stem left off Cheap Date might make the lower crux easier. It's definitely harder than Howling at the Wind. |
By SirVato
From: Boulder
Jul 18, 2008
| This thing stomped me for some reason!! The start was fine, I did stem off Cheap Date as long as possible but the upper crux was NASTY!
Tough lie back with a big reach good gear though. The first time I got on this, I bailed out to Cheap Date because, I didn't see any good gear available. Went back a week later to give 'er another go and found some good rp placements to get going out of the Cheap Date stance. |
By RandyFarris
Mar 29, 2011
| Not sure how Mike got credit for this one. I did the first ascent of this back in the '80s with a client during a week long "rock camp". I for sure started up Cheap Date and then stepped right into the thin crack. I was pretty dialed into Lumpy back then, so it didn't feel too bad. I am pretty sure I rated it 11a at the time. Probably would kick my ass now. |
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