Type: TR, 30 ft (9 m)
FA: Dan Jaffe 1992 (TR) Pablo Saunders-Shultz 2023 (Lead)
Page Views: 1,330 total · 9/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Sep 5, 2012 · Updates
Admins: L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A beautiful barndoor layback climb on a pinkish-orange arete. Start up a short thin crack to a nice stance at the bottom of the arete. Paste your feet and crank upwards while fighting the urge to barndoor off. When the arete becomes too rounded to continue, make a big move up right (crux) to a small crystalline crimp that resembles a set of teeth. Above, continue liebacking using whatever small crystals for feet you can find. Very nice!

Protection Suggest change

4 leads bolts protect the meat of this climb while a .75 helps with intro 5.9 moves to gain the arete. Additionally this route can be TRd by climbing Easy reach as the the two climbs share an anchor. Be sure to extend your anchor over the lip as rope drag can be heinous and eat your rope.

Location Suggest change

A very obvious pink-orange arete towards the left end of the West side of Lizard's Eye. Scramble up one of the routes on the east side (easy 5th class) or lead Easy Reach 5.7 (climber's right) to access the TR bolts. Rappel to descend or downclimb easy 5th class on the east side.

Photos

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